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Mexico City has become a foodie paradise, and it’s no wonder. There’s truly something for everyone, from tacos de canasta to Michelin-star street tacos to fine dining restaurants in the Top 50 in the world.
But long before Mexico City found itself on the gourmet radar, iconic eateries have been showing up day after day and delivering delicious delights without fanfare—some for over 100 years! Some spots are famous for their ambiance, others for their specialties, others for their history. But one thing they all have in common is a step back in time.
So take off your hipster foodie hat for a moment, walk through the well-worn doors of these nine unique Mexico City establishments, and breathe in the history. Then sit down and enjoy the fine foods that make them famous.
Start this list with an early breakfast and work your way through the day, all the way to dessert. (Although it’s definitely too much to do in one day!)
- Fonda Margarita (1950s)
- Cafe la Habana (1952)
- Casa de los Azulejos (1919)
- Café de Tacuba (1912)
- El Borrego Viudo (1969)
- Churrería El Moro (1935)
- Pastelería Ideal (1927)
- La Especial de Paris (1921)
- Dulceria de Chelaya (1874)
Breakfast
There are plenty of swanky (expensive) pastry and breakfast joints in Condesa and Roma (I’m looking at you, Panadería Rosetta), but if you are looking for a classic Mexican breakfast, there is one iconic spot.
Fonda Margarita
Hours: 6:30am-12:00pm (closed Monday)
Address: Adolfo Prieto 1364 B, Tlacoquemecatl del Valle, Benito Juárez, 03100 CDMX
You really have to earn your Fonda Margarita breakfast. This shack of a restaurant is not near any place of note, nor is it super close to a Metro or MetroBus stop. But it’s worth the detour.
There is a line out the door at almost any time of day, so the earlier you get here the better. Besides, you don’t want to get there after they run out of the good stuff!
Every morning at the crack of dawn since the 1950s, the Fonda Margarita team has been up preparing delicious guisados (stews) that showcase the best of traditional Mexican breakfast cuisine. The first thing you notice when you step in is the row of cazuelas (clay pots) lined up on the back table, steaming with deliciousness.
As you listen to the casual music being played by the owner and his friends, wander over to see what’s in the pots. It’s just good home cooking. So many choices—what will you order?!?
There are some classics that should be part of any order, such as the frijoles refritos con huevo (refried beans with egg) and chicharrón en salsa verde (pork ribs in green sauce).
Try as many things as you can—they offer small portions for some items. You can preview the menu on their website (don’t forget the daily specials!). You’ll probably have enough time to preview the menu again while you wait in line.
It’s communal seating, so get ready to make new friends. It’s also mostly locals eating here, so a bit of Spanish will come in handy. Of course, you will also find the occasional foodie tourist (like yourself).
If you don’t trust my recommendations, perhaps you will trust Anthony Bourdain and Phil, who both ate here.
All Day
There are few iconic spots in town that can hook you up with a memorable meal in a beautiful setting at almost any time of day.
Casa de los Azulejos (Sanborns)
Hours: 7:00am-12:00am everyday (open until 1:00am Friday and Saturday)
Address: Avenida Francisco I. Madero 4, Centro Histórico, Cuauhtémoc, 06500 Ejido del Centro, CDMX
Instagram is full of selfies in front of the famous tile exterior of this elaborately decorated building in the heart of Mexico City, but did you know you can also dine in the equally stunning interior?
This beautiful palace building was constructed in 1793 and served as a residence for many years. It became known as the Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles) after talavera tiles from Puebla were added to the exterior. In 1919, Sanborns department store bought the building to open their second location, which allowed the public to finally access the building. Sanborns launched their first fine-dining restaurant here, and I don’t think it has changed much since then!
There are now 125 Sanborns restaurants in Mexico, but this is the original.
Over one hundred years later, they are still here, offering classic Mexican and international dishes. They are especially known for their enchiladas suizas and mole dishes.
But you and I know you are not here for the food. This space is gorgeous! You won’t be looking at your plate. Instead you’ll be gazing all around, admiring the scars of many earthquakes on the building’s structure. Yes, the walls are a little wonky.
If you don’t feel like eating here, they really don’t mind if you just go in for a wander. Just try not to get in the way of the constant flow of colorful servers, balancing trays laden with tempting desserts.
And don’t miss the 1925 José Clemente Orozco mural (“Omnisciencia”) going up the stairs. There is also a cozy bar in the corner on the second level.
Café de Tacuba
Hours: 8:00am-11:00pm every day
Address: Calle de Tacuba 28, Centro Histórico, Cuauhtémoc, 06010 CDMX
Café de Tacuba is another classic Mexican fine dining restaurant that will take you back in time and wow you with its décor. Going strong since 1912, the Café de Tacuba has hosted many famous Mexican artists, intellectuals, and dignitaries over the years. You can feel the history seeping from the tile-covered walls, and wonder what deals and arrangements much have been made here over a few glasses of tequila or a steaming plate of enchiladas.
As a plus, there is live music every evening, with roaming mariachis or tunas ready to take your requests and serenade your table.
Indeed it’s a great place to sample traditional Mexican food staples, from mole to enchiladas and tamales. The menu is extensive (and has English translations). Get the sampler plate (botana Mexicana) and try it all!
If I had to choose, I would actually choose Café de Tacuba over Casa de los Azulejos for the food and dining experience.
This is a great place for a group dinner—reserve ahead if you can.
El Borrego Viudo
Hours: 24 hours a day, every day
Address: Avenida Revolución 241, Tacubaya, Miguel Hidalgo, 11870 CDMX
Enough of the fine dining. You’ve been out at the bars and late-night hunger has set in. Head straight to El Borrego Viudo for tacos!
Founded in 1969, El Borrego Viudo (aka the widowed ram) is a late-night favorite known for its quick service —although expect service to slow down when it gets super crowded in the wee hours of the morning.
You won’t find anything fancy here, just their famous al pastor and suadero tacos, and the usual other typical taco fillings. But these tiny tacos are quick, delicious, and they hit the spot.
The only downside is that the location is not super close to any attractions or hotspots. But it has a drive-through, so maybe you can get your Uber driver to stop there!
Afternoon and Evening
Need a little pick-me-up in the afternoon? We’ve got the spot for you !
Café La Habana
Hours: 1:00pm-11:00pm (closed Sunday)
Address: Avenida Morelos 62, Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, 06600 CDMX
As soon as you step into Café La Habana, you know some things have happened here. It feels like it is right out of a 1950’s movie set, with its checkered vinyl floors and classic vintage furnishings. Makes sense—this place has been around since 1952.
They say that Fidel Castro and Che Guevara used to hang out here, probably talking about revolution stuff. The chill vibe, with the gentle clattering of heavy dishes and lingering scent of roasted coffee beans, has also attracted its share of writers and intellectuals seeking a place where their thoughts can wander. Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Octavio Paz were reportedly regulars.
Café La Habana actually roasts its own coffee, “Cuban style”. You can get your coffee in the usual formats (I got a cappuccino), but it won’t be your third wave coffee. You can also buy coffee beans to go.
The menu is pretty extensive with an assortment of Mexican and international offerings. Nothing is fancy, but it’s good basic fare.
Remember that you are not here for the food, but rather to soak in the ambiance.
Dessert
Got a sweet tooth? Mexico City has a lot of options for you!
Churrería El Moro
Hours: 8:00am – 10:00pm (11:00pm on Fridays and Saturdays)
Address: Calle Río Lerma 167, Cuauhtémoc, 06500 CDMX
El Moro is probably the one place you have already heard of, as it’s pretty famous as the go-to place for churros in Mexico City. They have a few locations, but this original location has been here since 1935 and is worth checking out if you have a craving for churros and hot chocolate.
Listen, I don’t even love churros, but these ones are DELICIOUS, especially fresh out of the fryer.
It’s a short walk from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Palacio Postal, and Torre Latinoamericano, so it should be easy to work into any Mexico City itinerary.
If you don’t have time to linger, you can always get churros to go! Just pay at the register, and pick up your steaming bag of churros, with or without cinnamon, with or without chocolate dipping sauce.
Phil also ate here, so it should be legit.
Note: I just heard that El Moro will be opening an outpost in Los Angeles, so if you can’t get to Mexico City, that might be the next best thing.
Pastelería Ideal
Hours:6:30am – 9:00pm every day
Address: Avenida 16 de Septiembre 18, Colonia Centro C.P 06000 CDMX (or a second location at nearby República de Uruguay 74, Colonia Centro C.P 06000 CDMX)
If Willy Wonka had a pastry shop, Pasteleria Ideal would be it. They have been turning butter, sugar, and flour into delectable delights since 1927.
Open those doors and the smell of sweet sweet sugar and pastries hits you full-on.
Stepping into this large pastry palace, you don’t know which way to turn. There are dramatic gelatin desserts in the cases in front, fancy cakes to the left, and the rest of the cavernous shop is filled with heaps of baked goods. Workers shuffle around filling and refilling the piles faster than you can empty them.
Grab a tray and tongs and start filling it up! It’s quite affordable, so don’t hold back. Then take your tray to the cashier, pay, and pick up your pastries, all wrapped up in the iconic Pastelería Ideal box.
If you want a fancier cake, order from one of the ladies (it’s usually ladies) behind the counter, pay, and pick up your packaged treats.
Pastelería Ideal is a few short blocks from the Zócalo, so it makes for a great snack break on a busy sight-seeing day. Just note that there isn’t anywhere to sit inside.
La Especial de París (Special of Paris)
Hours: 12:30pm – 8:30pm every day (opens at noon on weekends)
Address: Insurgentes Centro 117-B, 06470 CDMX
La Especial de Paris is the oldest ice cream shop in Mexico City. Generations of this family have been slinging scoops since 1921!
Have a seat at the bar or tucked into one of their snug seats upstairs or downstairs and take some time to peruse their ridiculously extensive menu.
They are known for both traditional and unique ice cream and sorbet flavors. Some flavors are seasonal. I was intrigued by the tabaco (tobacco) flavor, and the mantequilla (butter) flavor—both actually lived up to their names.
Go for a fancy sundae or just a scoop. Can’t decide? They will let you taste before deciding. If you aren’t feeling adventurous, they have all the conventional flavors as well.
Dulcería de Celaya
Hours: 10:30am – 7:00pm (closed Sunday)
Address: Avenida 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Histórico, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 CDMX
Run by generations of a family since 1874, Dulcería de Celaya offers a wides election of traditional Mexican sweets in a stunning interior. It’s another one that feels right out of a movie set.
Dulcería de Celaya is a great place to get typical, yet hard-to-find, sweets like “alegrías” (amaranth bars), “camotes” (sweet potato candies), and puercitos (little pig-shaped cookies). They really show up for events like Dia de Muertos with seasonal specialties.
Final Thoughts
The Mexico City dining scene has so much to offer. I just encourage you to take a little detour from all the Condesa and Roma hotspots and check out some of the more traditional local institutions.
The food is classically delicious, and you will feel the history of this fantastic city in every bite.