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It never would have occurred to me to check out the Museo José Luis Cuevas (José Luis Cuevas Museum) if my brother and his wife had not held their wedding reception here back in the 1990s. It was one of the best weddings, and the only wedding I have been to where breakfast (chilaquiles, of course) was served! You know it was a good party when nighttime turns to day.
So, years later when I was back in Mexico City for a few months, I thought it would be fun to take a trip down memory lane and check out the space again.
Sure enough, the memories came rushing back when I walked in and was greeted by a towering, and quite chubby, androgenous statue in the center of the courtyard, known as “La Giganta” (it gives Botero-meets-Picasso vibes).
Gone were the fancy tables and dance floor from the wedding. It was time to explore the museum as it was originally intended.
By now you are surely wondering…who was José Luis Cuevas? Why does he have a museum? Is it worth a visit?
Let me give you the rundown!
Who was José Luis Cuevas?
While you might have never heard of him, it turns out that José Luis Cuevas was quite an important character in the Mexican artist community in the mid-1900s.
He was born in Mexico City in 1934 and went to art school starting around 10 years old. But his art school career was short-lived when he was side-lined by a bout of rheumatic fever. He recovered a few years later and picked back up, pretty much teaching himself to be an artist from then on.
Cuevas came into his own, breaking away from the muralist tradition of big names like Diego Rivera, and emerging as a central figure of the “La Ruptura” movement. La Ruptura (breakup / breakaway) was a movement of artists that thought the muralist tradition had become “dogmatic, formulaic and nationalistic and […] too deferential to the government” (per Wikipedia).
Cuevas instead critiqued the establishment and societal norms in favor of individuality and self-expression. His smaller, introspective works (including sketches, prints, and sculptures) often highlighted surreal themes and depicting human suffering.
And so Cuevas was nicknamed the “enfant terrible” of Mexican art.
He was also known as something of a “gato macho” (womanizer). Some might also say he was rather vain. He reportedly took a picture of himself every day for over 50 years; there is no shortage of self-portraits in his museum!
And it wasn’t just his art that made waves—his writings also challenged conventions and helped shape modern Mexican culture.
He remained a controversial yet respected figure right up until his death in 2017. His art continues to inspire and provoke.
Intrigued? You can decide for yourself when you visit his museum!
Is the Museo José Luis Cuevas Worth a Visit?
I never turn down an opportunity to see what is behind a set of giant wooden doors in downtown Mexico City. And nor should you.
That said, I would certainly not put the Museo José Luis Cuevas on any “must-see” list for Mexico City.
BUT if you want an instant escape from the hubbub of the historic center, I would argue that it’s worth a quick pop in. And you’re almost guaranteed to have the place pretty much to yourself.
Visiting the Museo José Luis Cuevas also provides an opportunity to wander through a beautiful old convent building and see some interesting art that might push your thinking. You will discover the works and collection of this somewhat eccentric self-taught artist who made waves in the artist community of his time.
And if you visit on a Sunday when the museum is free, you won’t feel like you have to spend too much time there to get your money’s worth. But you might just find yourself enjoying it more than you thought!
What to Expect in the Museum
The museum houses almost 2000 works of art by José Luis Cuevas and other Latin American artists (they are not all on display at once).
The museum has two levels, where you wander through the rooms of this old convent building. As you pop from room to room, your eyes can’t help but be drawn to La Giganta in the center of the courtyard.
What you will certainly find is a lot of self-portraits by Cuevas! He was a pretty handsome guy, so why not practice with a cooperative subject.
I’m not sure if they are permanently on display, but there are a few rooms on the second floor that display a lot of his sketches that will give you a bit of insight into his edgy style.
Concerts at the Museum
One of the best ways to experience the museum space is to attend a concert here. They seem to have a few concerts a month, usually classical music or opera.
Concerts are usually free, and people say the acoustics are excellent!
That said, it’s not super easy to find information about these concerts. Their website has an “Eventos” page but it hasn’t been updated since 2023. Your best bet is to check out the Museo José Luis Cuevas Facebook page and see if there is anything coming up during your visit.
The Museum Building
The Santa Inés Convent was designed by the architect Alonso Martínez López and built around 1600, just a few blocks from the Zócalo. In its heyday, the convent housed 33 nuns, one for each year of Christ’s life on earth. Unlike other convents where nuns had to pay a dowry, this convent was free. The nuns’ primary work was to teach children how to do household chores, and making products such as holy candles.
Unfortunately for the nuns, a blacksmith and locksmith eventually set up shop next door, disrupting the nuns’ daily life and causing some damage to the building. The nun’s funds for repairs eventually ran out, and they even had to resort to a raffle from the Royal Lottery to finance the repairs.
The building went through some hard times, with flooding in 1624 and a fire in 1639. And then over the course of time, just the usual aging of a building that requires constant attention and repairs.
Through it all the building remained a convent until the 1861 Nationalization of Church Property Act under President Benito Juarez. This Act limited the Catholic Church’s ability to own land. So the nuns moved out, and the convent building was separated from the church building and sold to a private buyer. It was divided up and converted into tenement housing.
The convent and church were declared a historic monument in 1932.
Meanwhile, in the 1970’s Cuevas was busy amassing his collection of Latin American art with the idea of establishing a museum in his name.
In the late 1980’s Cuevas was running all over Mexico City’s historic center looking for a spot big enough to house his growing art collection. This was, after all, where he was born, so he insisted that his museum should be housed in a building in this area.
He eventually found the run-down Santa Inés Convent and was inspired to repurpose into the Museo José Luis Cuevas. With a little help from his friends (who happened to be Presidents of Mexico), he was able to acquire the building in 1988 (basically through eminent domain).
Then began the massive renovation project. The building, like so many others, had been damaged by years of neglect—and the 1985 earthquake. They took care during the renovation to conduct archaeological investigations and document their findings, while retaining as many architectural elements as possible.
The museum opened on July 8, 1992, also introducing Cuevas’ new bronze La Giganta statue for the first time to the public. Mexican President Carlos Salinas de Gortari attended, along with many other notable artists and dignitaries.
Planning Your Visit
The Museo José Luis Cuevas has a website, but it doesn’t seem like anyone is paying attention to it. The hours and events are very outdated so I would take everything on there with a grain of salt (Salt Bae levels of salt). The information below better matches my research and experience.
Location
The Museo José Luis Cuevas is located just a few blocks east of the Zócalo, at Calle de la Academia 13.
Hours
Tuesday – Sunday: 10am – 5:30pm
Price
MX$20 general admission
Free on Sundays for everyone (not just Mexicans)
Final Thoughts
The Museo José Luis Cuevas will never make a Mexico City must list, but it certainly makes for an interesting stop on a downtown wander. It pairs well with a walk around the Zócalo (the Cathedral, Palacio Nacional, Museo del Templo Mayor, etc.), Colegio de San Ildefonso, or a visit to the Museo Nacional de las Culturas del Mundo.
Oh, and while you are in the area, make sure to stop at the stall around the corner on Paseo Moneda (in front of Boneteria Mary) that we affectionately call “bucket chicken” for some delicious street food!
It really is an oasis of quiet in a bustling area. The architecture is beautiful and the art just might push your thinking a little.
