A huge frame structure with gold design on a green lawn frames a large white mosque with gold minarets in the background. A man in a red shirt stands to the right.

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Do you ever land in a country …and wish you had done a bit more research on practical tips before arriving? Can I drink the water in Brunei? What plug should I bring? How will I get around? Do I need to tip?

Do you wish you knew just a bit more about the country’s history and culture? What the laws should I know about? Who is this guy in pictures everywhere?

If you are like me, sometimes bouncing from country to country it’s easy to run out of time—or just forget—to get up to speed on every new place. This Know Before You Go guide gives you a crash course in everything you need to plan for your trip Brunei, or get up to speed once you get there.

I encourage you to read through the whole post, but if you are in a hurry, feel free to jump to the section you need the most:

About Brunei

Why Visit Brunei?

The Sultanate of Negara Brunei Darussalam (aka Brunei) appeals primarily to the curious traveler and to people trying to visit every country in the world. It is, after all, a little out of the way, and not very well known.

If you are in the region, it’s worth a stop in Brunei (check out 13 Fun Things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan for a guide on how to make the most of your trip to Brunei’s capital.)

Read on for a everything you need to know before you go to Brunei!

Government

Brunei is an absolute monarchy (sultanate, in this case). That means that what the Sultan says, goes. The sultanate is an inherited position. The Brunei sultanate’s lineage dates back to the 1300s.

The 29th Sultan of Brunei, His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah, the Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Brunei Darussalam, is the Head of State and Head of Government of Brunei Darussalam. He is also the Prime Minister.

Photo of a sultan, dressed in formal wear with medals and a decorative hat, in an oval frame.

Brunei gained its independence from Britain on his watch.

The Sultan presides over a nine-member cabinet. He also oversees the Religious Council, the Privy Council, the Judiciary, and a 33-member legislature (appointed by the Sultan).

Flag

The Brunei flag was officially adopted on September 29, 1959. The Brunei flag has a yellow background with white and black stripes running horizontally from upper left to lower right. Brunei’s national coat of arms (a crescent under an umbrella, with hands on either side) is in red in the center of the flag.

The Brunei flag has a yellow background with white and black stripes running horizontally from upper left to lower right. Brunei’s national coat of arms (a crescent under an umbrella, with hands on either side) is in red in the center of the flag.

The yellow background represents royalty, and the black and white stripes represent Brunei’s chief ministers.

The royal parasol in the center is the symbol of the sultanate. The crescent represents Islam, and is adorned with “always render service with God’s guidance” written in Arabic. The ribbon below the crescent also has text in Arabic script saying “Brunei, the Abode of Peace”. The upturned hands on either side of the emblem represent the government supporting and protecting the people.

History Highlights

Brunei is a relatively new country. It achieved independence and full sovereignty from Britain on January 1, 1984. It had been a British protectorate state from 1888 to 1983. It remains a part of the Commonwealth.

Geography

Tucked away in a small corner of northern Borneo, Brunei is a tiny country in two parts. Other than its 100 miles (161 km) of coastline on the South China Sea, Brunei is surrounded and separated by Sarawak state in Malaysia.

A green map of Brunei is backlit against a beige wall.
Colonial meddling gets you a map like this

Climate

Listen, it’s hot and humid all year long in this tropical rainforest climate near the equator. And it rains a lot. According to the Brunei Darussalam Meteorological Department, there are two monsoon seasons: Southwest monsoon June-September and Northeast monsoon December-March. The wettest months are December and May.

But with climate change everything is up in the air. We were there in August and there was a drought (although still very hot and humid!).

People

There are around 450,000 people living in Brunei.

About 65 percent of the Brunei population are Malays descended from seven primary ethnic groups: Malay, Kedayan, Belait, Tutong, Bisaya, Murut, Dusun. The remaining Bruneians are ethnic Chinese, Indians and other minor groups.

Economy

Fifty percent of Brunei’s economy comes from exports of crude oil and natural gas, which makes this tiny nation surprisingly rich. And its sultan is one of the richest men in the world.

Practical Matters

Entry Requirements

Visa rules change all the time. Check the official Brunei Ministry of Foreign Affairs website for visa information before planning your visit to Brunei.

US, UK, EU visitors: Visa-free for 90 days. Also ensure that you have:

  • Passport valid for at least six months after entering the country
  • Two blank passport pages
  • Proof of onward travel
  • Proof of sufficient funds

As of February 2023, visitors traveling to Brunei via sea, land, or air must complete the online E-Arrival Card prior to arrival. You have to register on the site before being able to complete the form. The government provides detailed instructions on how to complete the form in this Guidelines E-Arrival Card document.

Holidays

Brunei’s National Day is February 23, commemorating the day Brunei was finally free from British control.

All businesses are required to close on Fridays between noon and 2pm (for prayers).

Brunei strictly observes the holy month of Ramadan (dates vary by year, just google “when is Ramadan YYYY”). Unless you are trying to get into the Sultan’s palace, it’s probably not an ideal time to visit.

Money

The official currency is the Brunei dollar (BND), which is tied to the Singapore dollar (you can use Singapore dollars in Brunei). As of January 2024, the exchange rate was US$1 = BND$1.3. Check xe.com for the latest rates.

ATMs are not too hard to find in Bandar Seri Begawan, and they accept foreign cards.

Many restaurants and businesses accept credit cards, but you should also carry cash with you for smaller transactions, such as haircuts, taxis, and markets.

Tipping

Tipping is not customary or expected in Brunei. If you have exceptional service and want to give a little extra, however, it will certainly be appreciated.

Nicer restaurants or hotels might add a 10% service charge to the bill.

Water

The tap water in Bandar Seri Begawan and other large towns is generally considered safe to drink.

Time Zone

Brunei is GMT+8.

This is 13 hours ahead of New York City during standard time and the same time zone as Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Western Australia.

Telephone Country Code

673

Electricity

Brunei uses the G plug, 240 volts. This is the UK 3-prong plug.

Phone

SIM cards: Progresif seems to be the most popular SIM card.

GoogleFi – Covered.

T-Mobile – Covered. We used T-Mobile and it was ok, not great. But it was generally enough to use maps and call a ride on the app.

Internet

The internet in Brunei is decent. According to Oookla’s Speedtest Global Index, Brunei ranks 20th in the world for mobile speeds and 66th in the world for fixed broadband speeds (as of November 2023).

Actual wi-fi speeds will depend somewhat on where you are staying.

Web extension

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Language and Culture

Language

Bahasa Melayu (Malay language) is the official language of Brunei. There are Chinese and Indian communities that continue to speak their native languages. Most people in Brunei (and especially Bandar Seri Begawan) speak English.

Religion

Islam is the official religion of Brunei and guides the country’s customs, practices, and laws.

Food

The food is Brunei is similar to that of its neighbors in Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia. Expect a lot of rice and noodle dishes, flavored with ginger, lemongrass, coconut, and other delicious spices. You can also find tasty Indian and Chinese food.

The national food is ambuyat, a gluey, almost flavorless starch made from the sago palm, and dipped into a spicy/sour sauce to help it glide down the throat.

Wooden chopsticks hold up a semi-transparent gooey substance in a white bowl on a wooden table.

Alcohol

There are very strict rules about alcohol in Brunei. You are not allowed to buy alcohol in Brunei—and definitely not allowed to consume alcohol if you are Muslim.

However, non-Muslims over 18 years old can bring a limited amount of alcohol into Brunei—2 liters of wine/spirits and 12 cans of beer at last check­­—with accompanying paperwork. Even then, you can only drink your alcohol in private and cannot exhibit drunken behavior in public.

There are rumored to be secret bars and other ways to buy alcohol in-country, but it is unlikely that you, the casual visitor, will find them. They are not publicized for good reason.

If you need an alcohol fix, you can pop over on a 2-hour ferry to Labuan Federal Territory in Malaysia. Bonus: it’s a duty-free zone!

What to Wear

Since Brunei is a strict Islamic country, men and women should dress modestly. That means wearing loose clothing that covers most of your body, at least from your shoulders to your knees.

Non-Muslim women do not need to wear hijab or cover their heads except in mosques. They do provide loaner cloaks (men and women) and head covers for visiting mosques.

Woman in a large black cloak stands in front of a red rope inside a mosque. The walls and ceilings are white and ornately decorated.
Wearing a loaner cloak to visit inside the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

I would recommend against wearing shorts (men and women), although it’s probably fine out in Ulu Temburong National Park.

And yes, it’s hot, so covering up might not be the most comfortable. On the plus side, on a sunny day you should be grateful for the full coverage so you don’t get a sunburn.

Movies

There aren’t a lot of movies coming out of Brunei, but the most commonly references ones are Yasmine (2014) and Apa Apa Dengan Rina (2013). You can stream Yasmine on Kanopy or Tubi.

Books

Brunei is a small country, but there have been a few successful authors (writing in English) in recent times:

  • Written in Black by KH Kim, a coming-of-age story of a young boy in a Chinese family in Brunei.
  • The Fisherman King by Kathrina Mohn Daud, a story about a fisherman who tries to prove his ties to the royal family.
  • The Forlorn Adventure by Amir Falique recounts the futuristic adventure of the first Bruneian to go to space.

Several modern novels by Western authors are also set in Brunei, including Armageddon by Dale Brown and Devil of a State by Anthony Burgess.

Exploring

There’s plenty to keep you busy in Brunei! Most of the activities are in and around Bandar Seri Begawan, but if you can get out further, you should.

Main Attractions

Bandar Seri Begawan

  • Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien (Mosque)
  • Royal Regalia Museum
  • Gadong Night Market
A cream-colored mosque with a golden dome and many minarets with gold domes is reflected on calm waters against a clear dusky sky
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

Check out 13 Fun Things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan for more ideas for things to do on your visit.

Ulu Temburong National Park

The main attraction of Ulu Temburong National Park is the canopy walk, with views high above the prinstine rainforest canopy.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

As of January 2024, there are zero UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Brunei.

Festivals

The main festivals and holidays in Brunei are:

  • Hari Raya AidilFitri (aka Eid al-Fitr, marks the end of Ramadan, date varies each year)
  • February 23: Brunei National / Independence Day
  • May 1: Adau Gayoh Harvest Festival (Dusun)
  • June 1: Gawai Harvest Festival (Ibanese)
  • July 15: His Majesty the Sultan’s Birthday
  • December: Brunei December Festival

Souvenirs

There’s not much in the way of souvenirs in Brunei. You can find the usual tourist shlock (t-shirts, mugs, keychains, etc.) at the YSHHB mall in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan.

If you have time and energy you can seek out traditional handicrafts (mostly silverwork, kris/keris [traditional Malay dagger] and textiles woven with silver and gold threads) in Kampong Ayer or the Brunei Arts and Handicrafts Training Center (BAHTC) along the river in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan. You might also find handicrafts at the Tamu night market.

Check out Brunei Tourism for more information.

Getting Around

Driving

Brunei drives on the LEFT, thanks to the British.

The roads are generally good and not congested, at least in and around Bandar Seri Begawan.

A black car drives on an otherwise empty, nicely paved city street. Tall buildings rise in the background.

An International Driver’s License along with a license issued from your country is required in order to drive in Brunei.

Public Transportation

There are public “Franchise” buses that run around Bandar Seri Begawan, but they run infrequently, unpredictably, and only from 6am to 8pm. There are two lines (the blue Eastern and green Northern) that run to the airport—those might come in handy for your arrival or departure.

A bright pink bus is parked in a lot with yellow lines. There is a large grey building with reflective windows in the background

And of course, there’s always the water taxi to navigate the river and get across to Kampong Ayer.

There are some longer distance buses to key cities in Serawak and Sabah, Malaysia.

Rideshare

Brunei has its own app for rideshare services: Dart Brunei. This is the only app (Apple and Android) that you can use in Brunei to hail a ride. Download it before you arrive!

Rides around Bandar Seri Begawan are relatively easy to find and reasonable cost.

Health and Safety

Laws

This section is not legal advice or a primary source of legal information. Please check the current laws of Brunei before you visit.

Brunei has some very strict laws with very strict punishments that you should be aware of before you travel there. Starting in 2013 Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah decided to implement the penal code from Sharia law, so you can see where this is going.

Screenshot of a webpage with a yellow band at the top, and black and red letters
You can’t say you didn’t know…

Caning, death by stoning, fines, and prison are some of the popular punishments. Some laws apply to everyone, regardless of nationality or religion. Others have some wiggle room for foreigners.

In a nutshell: no firearms, no drugs, no alcohol, no pornography, no sex (or even “closeness”) outside of marriage, and definitely no homosexual sex. Being a non-Muslim/foreigner generally will not save you. Overstaying your visa is also a big no-no.

During Ramadan, it is illegal to eat, drink or smoke in public during fasting hours, even for foreigners.

It is also illegal (and ill-advised) to say anything negative about the Sultan or his family.

Safety

Brunei is one of the safest countries in the world. Probably because nothing is allowed and the punishments are severe!

Of course, you should always be aware of your surroundings and protect your valuables, as you would anywhere else.

Medical

Brunei citizens get free health care. There are three general hospitals and many smaller clinics throughout the country. Basic medical care is good, but for more complicated procedures, they will send you to places like India or Singapore.

Emergency Phone Numbers

Ambulance: 991; Fire: 995; Police: 993

US Embassy/Consulate

US Embassy in Bandar Seri Begawan

Phone: (673) 238-4616

Address: Simpang 336-52-16-9, Jalan Duta, Bandar Seri Begawan, BC4115 Brunei Darussalam

Website: https://bn.usembassy.gov/

Email: ConsularBrunei@state.gov

Check here for other embassies in Brunei.

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