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If you are in or around the city of Campeche you should definitely consider exploring the nearby Edzná Archaeological Site. It makes for a perfect day trip, or even half-day trip, from Campeche.
The first reason to visit Edzná is for its unique and impressive Mayan architecture. I mean, really, Edzná has it all: a large central plaza, several pyramids and temples, a ball court, and a complex system of water management and drainage.
The site also offers a peaceful and less crowded experience than other sites in the area (I’m looking at you Chichen Itzá!).
You can also climb up almost all of the pyramids, which is becoming increasingly difficult at Mayan archaeological sites (and for good reason).
Overall, if you are interested in Mayan history or simply enjoy exploring archaeological sites, then a visit to Edzná is definitely worth it.
Read on for information on the site and practical tips for how to make the most of your visit to Edzná.
If you want to skip the history and go straight to the practical tips for visiting Edzná, click here.
About Edzna
Edzná is a Mayan archaeological site on the Yucatán peninsula, located in the small Mexican state of Campeche.
The site is managed and maintained by El Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History. INAH is responsible for 193 archaeological sites across the country, and they do a pretty amazing job.
If you want to learn about Edzná before you visit, stop by the official INAH site for Edzná. You can find a site map, some cool drone shots, and a detailed overview of the site’s history and importance.
But I will give you the highlights here!
History
The history of Edzná is closely tied to that of broader Maya civilization. Like many other Mayan cities, Edzná experienced a period of rapid growth and development between 400 and 1000 CE. During this time it served as an important political and cultural center for the Mayans. The city also thrived as a regional center of trade and commerce until its eventual decline in the 15th century.
Let’s get into a few more details.
Name
The name Edzná comes from “Ytzná”, which means “house of the Itzaes” in Maya. “Ytzná” gradually evolved into “Etzná” and eventually became Edzná.
Growth and development
The first evidence of humans at this site dates back to 600 BCE.
Over time the small community grew and eventually formed a centralized government. They developed an efficient system of canals and reservoirs for rainwater collection, storage, and disposal. The system provided them with a steady supply of water for agriculture and general use.
The city continued to grow, and they constructed the large temples and infrastructure we see today. As they grew they also absorbed surrounding villages and made alliances with other strong cities like Calakmul.
The population peaked at 25,000 around 1000 CE.
Decline and abandonment
Like many other Mayan cities, Edzná experienced a period of decline and abandonment in the four centuries that followed.
The decline was likely the result of a combination of factors such as drought, overpopulation, and environmental degradation. As the local environment became less viable to support the population, people may have been forced to move elsewhere in search of better living conditions.
Political instability may also have played a role in the site’s decline. Edzná was part of a larger network of Mayan city-states, and it is possible that conflicts or power struggles between these groups may have destabilized the region and contributed to the city’s abandonment.
Discovery
The question of “discovery” is always a delicate one, especially for a place that locals have known about all along.
The first recorded reference to discovery of the site was in the 1860s when Austrian explorer Teobert Maler heard about the site. He was going to check it out but ultimately decided it wasn’t worth going because he heard that there wasn’t much left to see. Joke’s on him!
In the early 1900s, locals from a nearby town told Porfirio Diaz’s government about the ruins. But that news got lost in the shuffle that was the Mexican revolution.
So it wasn’t until 1927 that the government officially recognized the site and began excavations.
In another bit of interesting history, in the 1980s Edzná was the beneficiary of a job creation program for workers displaced by the civil war in Guatemala. These workers did a lot to excavate, renovate, and restore the site we can visit today.
Architecture
Those savvy archaeologists say that the structures at Edzná are primarily built in the Petén style, influenced by neighboring Guatemala. Characteristics of this style are steep walls and staircases, large limestone blocks covered in plaster and painted, and façades adorned with faces of gods, mythical creatures and symbols.
You can find similar Petén-style architecture in Uxmal, Kabah, Chichen Itza, Koba, and Tikal (Guatemala).
Site Layout and Structures
At its peak, the ancient city of Edzná covered an area of 25 km², or about 10 square miles (6400 acres). The excavated site you can visit today is only around 1 km², or 22 acres.
Still today Edzná is nestled in a dense jungle area. The excavated site’s layout is centered around a large plaza, which is traversed by a sacbe, a raised paved Mayan road.
A number of impressive buildings and structures surround the grand plaza. The largest structure is a complex of buildings known as the Great Acropolis, with pyramids on top of pyramids.
The Temple of the Five Stories is the main event at Edzná. It sits on top of another large pyramid and, as its name implies, has five stories. You cannot climb this pyramid but it is enough to admire it from below. Don’t miss the hieroglyphics at the base.
The Temple of the Moon is located on the same high pyramid as the Temple of the Five Stories. It is a large-stepped pyramid that was likely used for astronomical observations and religious ceremonies. It’s worth a quick climb up. (Also, I somehow did not get a good picture of the Temple of the Moon!)
The Southwest Temple anchors one corner of the Grand Acropolis. It is a good steep climb up, but you will be rewarded with amazing views of just about the whole site.
The Temple of the Masks has one of the best-preserved examples of stucco masks representing the sun at sunrise and sunset, flanked by other astronomical symbols.
Tucked away next to the Temple of the Masks is the Small Acropolis, another case of temples built on top of a pyramid base. This is the oldest area of the site, and not in as good shape. Look for the hieroglyphs at the base of the larger temple.
The South Temple is another five-tiered pyramid, though much smaller. It has an adjacent Ballcourt that will look familiar if you have visited other Mayan sites.
Casa Grande (Nohochná) is basically a long thin platform facing the plaza and Acropolis. It has hallways and a bunch of what were once rooms on top. It makes a great place to sit and admire the site (although it is hot up there with no shade).
There are plenty of other smaller structures—go have a look for yourself!
Tips for Visiting Edzná
I recommend you always check the official INAH site for Edzná for the latest information on price and opening hours. But here is a quick summary of key information to help you plan your visit.
Hours
The site is open every day from 9am until 5pm, last entry at 4:30pm ( but it wouldn’t be worth it go for just 30 minutes).
Cost
The entrance fee is MX$90, making it one of the more affordable archaeological sites. The price has been increasingly steadily in the past few years, so get there while it’s still a bargain!
Amenities
There is a very new looking toilet facility at the entrance to the site. This is the only toilet! Don’t worry, though, you will probably be sweating so much you won’t need a toilet while you are wandering the site.
There are a few vending machines with drinks and maybe some snacks. When we were there they were mostly empty and in questionable working order, so don’t count on it.
Crowds
Entrance to Edzná is free for Mexican citizens on Sundays, so expect it to be more crowded. Perhaps choose a different day to visit if you want it to yourself. So try to avoid Sundays and major holidays.
The official website says there is a maximum capacity of 50 people but there were way more people than that when we were there, so I don’t think anyone is counting
Highlights
I loved that Edzná has all the greatest hits of a Mayan archaeological site: the tall pyramid, the ball court, the stucco masks, and a nice wide plaza. And it’s all laid out in a pretty compact area that’s easy to get around.
One cool aspect is that you don’t really see the main Temple of the Five Stories until you climb up the first part of the pyramid, so it emerges as a bit of a surprise. And it’s impressive.
Also, there are tons of iguanas! I swear my camera is full of iguana pictures from that day; I can’t help myself.
For many people, the lack of other tourists was a main plus of visiting Edzná compared to other site. We, however, unwittingly visited Edzná on Benito Juarez’s birthday (a major Mexican holiday weekend) and certainly did not have the ruin to ourselves! Even so, it didn’t feel crowded—it just wasn’t the ghost town that others have experienced.
I was disappointed (as an urban planner nerd) that with all the talk of a sophisticated water systems, there wasn’t really anything related to see.
Should I hire a guide?
I am always torn between wanting to wander freely through an archaeological site and wanting to hire a guide.
I always learn so much from a guide (which I then proceed to immediately forget, haha). But the best part is that they have a way of pointing out subtle things that you probably would not notice on your own.
Hiring a guide can be a great way to enhance your visit to Edzná, but it is not absolutely necessary. The site is well-marked and there are plenty of informational signs in English, Spanish, and Maya (which I love to see!) throughout the site that can provide you with basic information about the different buildings and structures.
That said, a knowledgeable guide can provide you with a wealth of information about the site, its architecture, and its history, and can help you to appreciate its significance in a deeper way.
Guides are available around the entrance to the site and will typically approach you as you enter. Generally speaking, you can expect to pay around MX$500 for a guide at Edzná, although fees are sometimes negotiable. The guide fee is usually for the group, not per person.
What to Bring to Edzná
Any time of year it is hot and humid in the jungles of the Yucatán. So you need to pack accordingly.
Comfortable shoes
Edzná is a fairly large site, and you will likely be doing a lot of walking and some climbing, so comfortable shoes are a must. Since it is hot, a sturdy hiking sandal is probably best.
Sun protection
Most of the site is out in the open with little shade. The Mexican sun can be intense, especially during the midday hours. Be sure to bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun’s rays.
Rain protection
If you go in rainy season (June to October), or the forecast calls for rain, you should come prepared with an umbrella or rain jacket. There is not a lot of shelter.
Bug spray
It’s the jungle, my friends! You are likely to encounter mosquitoes and other insects, and you don’t want the dengue fever.
There will be more mosquitos between April and November, with the most during rainy season July to September. Bring insect repellent to keep these pests away especially if traveling during peak mosquito season.
I always travel with a bite stick as well, since they seem to get me anyway.
Water and snacks
There are no restaurants or shops at Edzná. The closest thing to offering drinks and snacks are those questionable vending machines. So it’s a good idea to bring your own drinks and snacks to keep you hydrated and energized throughout your visit. Bring more water than you think you need.
Cash and small change
It’s a good idea to bring some cash and a variety of small bills and coins with you. You will have pay for your ticket in cash, and they might not have change, especially earlier in the day. If you hire a guide, you will also have to pay them in cash. There are a few vending machines at the site, which is where coins will come in handy.
Pack light and bring only the essentials, as you’ll be doing a lot of walking in the heat and won’t want to carry too much stuff with you. If you have a car, you can bring extra drinks and snacks and leave them in the car while you walk around the site.
How to Get to Edzná
Edzná is located 55 kms southeast of Campeche and is easy to get to for a day trip, either by car, colectivo, taxi, or guided tour.
By car
If you have a car, driving is the most convenient way to get to Edzná. The site can be reached by following Highway 180 or 261—just ask Google. There is a large parking area near the entrance to the site. It should only take 45 minutes to 1 hour from Campeche, depending on where you start and the time of day.
We had a car and it made the trip super easy.
By public transportation
If you’re staying in Campeche and don’t have access to a car, it’s easy to hop on a colectivo, or shared transport. These red and white minivans leave every 30 minutes or so from the corner of Calle Nicaragua and Calle Chihuahua, just outside the city walls. You can find the spot by searching for “Cooperativa colectivos Valle de Edzna” on Google maps.
You will want to get on a colectivo headed towards Bonfil. Just make sure when you get on the bus to confirm with the driver that they are going to Edzná and that you want to get off at the ruins. If your Spanish is rusty, just asking “Edzná?” should do the trick.
The ticket should cost around MX$45 and the ride takes about one hour.
You will have to walk a few hundred meters from the main road to the site entrance.
By Taxi
Taking a taxi is probably not your best option, but it’s certainly possible. Since it is a long way to drive, it might be hard to find a driver willing to take you, and it will definitely be pricier than a colectivo. You would probably want the driver to wait for you while you explore the site, as odds are slim that you would be able to find a taxi back to Campeche.
Your hotel or accommodation might be able to recommend a driver to take you there for the day. You could also try using the Didi app, the Mexican version of Uber.
I would guess that you would spend at least MX$500 for a taxi or driver for the day.
By guided tour
If you prefer a more organized and guided experience, there are tour companies in Campeche that offer day trips to Edzná. These tours typically include transportation, a guide, and sometimes even food and drinks. Honestly, a guided tour is probably overkill. You would be spending way more money than you need to by taking a tour, but it might be what works best for you!
Regardless of how you choose to get to Edzná, be sure to plan ahead and leave plenty of time to explore the site at your own pace.
Final Thoughts
Edzná offers a unique and less touristy experience than some of the other Mayan sites in the region.
It is well worth a visit if you are interested in Mayan history and culture, or if you simply enjoy exploring archaeological sites. Best of all, you might just have the place almost all to yourself.
And it’s an easy day trip from Campeche!
Want to learn about other beautiful but less well-known places to discover in the Yucatán? Check out this 12 Amazing Places to Visit in the Yucatán (That Aren’t Cancun) post.
