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Most people who visit Brunei visit only Bandar Seri Begawan (the capital), and maybe nearby Ulu Temburong National Park. Since there aren’t a lot of “things to do” in Brunei, most people just spend one to two days here, tick the country off their list, and move on.
I’m here to tell you that there are enough things to do in and around Bandar Seri Begawan to keep you busy for a good three to four days. You know I’m all about spending more time in places, taking it slow, and absorbing the culture.
Brunei is, however, one of the more expensive countries in an otherwise very affordable region, which is another reason travelers tend to keep their visit short.
About Bandar Seri Begawan
Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital and largest city of Brunei, a small sovereign state on the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. It officially became the capital of Brunei in 1920. Brunei itself did not become an independent country until 1984!
About 140,000 people—almost one third of the population of Brunei—call Bandar Seri Begawan home. While it is the hub of the country’s political, economic, and cultural activities, you will find it is a pretty sleepy town. There aren’t a lot of people in the streets, or even in the malls. And there isn’t a lot of traffic.
Who knows. I say just enjoy the peace and quiet as you explore.
What’s in a Name?
The city of Bandar Seri Begawan dates back to the 7th century when it was known as “Bendahara”. It was later known as Brunei Town (or Bandar Brunei in Malay). In 1970 the city was renamed to honor the contributions of [the current sultan] Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III’s late father, Sultan Haji Sir Muda Omar Ali Saifuddien, who assumed the title “Seri Begawan” after he abdicated and let his son take over the sultanate.
Since “Bandar Seri Begawan” is a bit of a mouthful, people often simply refer to it as BSB or Bandar.
Things to Do in Bandar Seri Begawan
There are more things to do in Brunei than you think. You can easily knock out the main attractions in Bandar Seri Begawan in one or two days, or you could spend three to five days exploring at a more leisurely pace and going a little further afield.
Here is a quick list of the top things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan.
- Spot wildlife on a Brunei River cruise
- Learn about Brunei’s Sultan at the Royal Regalia Museum
- Explore life on the water at Kampong Ayer
- Catch the sunset at Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddien (mosque)
- Admire the grandeur of Masjid Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah (mosque)
- Stroll the Brunei Waterfront
- Take another look at the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque through the BIBD Frame
- Shop for souvenirs at the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah mall
- Eye the Big Wall
- Peep through the gate at Istana Nurul Iman (the Sultan’s Palace)
- Discover Brunei delicacies at a local market
- Try the national food of Brunei: ambuyat
- Explore the rainforest at Ulu Temburong, Brunei’s only national park
Read on below for more details on each activity.
Planning your visit
Coordinating your visit will require a little advance planning, as a lot of attractions (i.e. mosques) have very particular opening hours—and all businesses in Brunei are supposed to be closed on Fridays between noon and 2pm.
Basically, I wouldn’t plan to be there on Friday if you want to do any activities.
You might also want to avoid the month of Ramadan, as schedules may be even more erratic. They are also very strict about no eating and drinking during Ramadan fasting time, with no exceptions for non-Muslims or foreigners.
As for weather, it’s always hot and humid in Brunei’s rainforest climate. The wettest months are usually December and May.
Note that Bandar Seri Begawan (and all of Brunei) is definitely not the place to go if you are looking for nightlife or a party (alcohol is banned…drugs are punishable by death).
Let’s get into the details on fun things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan!
Brunei River Cruise
Bandar Seri Begawan is located right on the Brunei River. It’s amazing that just a few minutes by boat up the river from downtown you can be surrounded by pristine jungle, serenaded by the relentless hum of cicadas and screeching monkeys.
You are almost guaranteed to spot proboscis monkeys, macaques, crocodiles, and an assortment of beautiful birds.
Of course, I made the poor decision to leave my real camera at the hotel—don’t be like me!
There are a few ways to get out on the river.
Tour companies offer river safaris, typically a few hours out on the water, followed by a stop at the water village. Our hotel quoted us BND$80 (about US$60 at the time) per person for a Freme river tour (through our hotel).
The other (better) option, which we discovered quite by chance, is to wander along the waterfront and wait for a water taxi to offer you a river tour. Hang out at one of the water taxi “stops” (by the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah mall, or the Surau Haji Abas Sulaiman mosque) and see if you can arrange something. A boatman offered us a one-hour tour for BND$30 for the two of us and we said yes!
He was really good at spotting monkeys and crocodiles, and we ended up out there for almost two hours. He also took us through Kampong Ayer as the sun set to finish off the tour.
It’s best to get out on the river in the morning (8am ish) or the evening (5pm ish).
This activity is a must!
Royal Regalia Museum
From everything I had read and heard, I thought this museum just displays a bunch of gifts the Sultan has received from other government leaders over the years. But it is so much more than that!
This museum is really a visual ode to the Sultan, and a great introduction to modern Brunei history.
The displays at the beginning walk you through the Sultan’s family history. There is a special high-security, no photos allowed, room with important very shiny gold royal objects, and a replica of the throne.
Then you walk past loads and loads of gifts from foreign dignitaries on display.
And if you still have energy after winding through the processional floats, there is a lot more information on Brunei’s history, particularly independence from Britain and beyond, tucked in the back and upstairs.
We easily spent two hours in the museum.
Fun fact, you have to leave your shoes at the door, so bring socks if you don’t want to walk barefoot. They also have lockers for you to leave your bags (required).
A visit to the museum should be on your must-see list early in your visit to Bandar Seri Begawan. For more details on planning your visit to the Royal Regalia Museum, check out Beyond Gifts: a Journey Through Brunei’s Royal Regalia Museum.
Kampong Ayer
Kampong Ayer, also known as the Water Village, is located right across the Brunei River from the downtown area of modern Bandar Seri Begawan.
Kampong Ayer is a traditional water village built on stilts over the Brunei River. It is thought to be the original settlement area in Brunei and has long been a hub for trade, fishing, and social activities.
It is one of the oldest and largest continuously inhabited water villages in the world. Many families have been living in the water village for generations, and the community has its schools, mosques, and other essential facilities.
People often refer to it as the “Venice of the East,” but really the similarities stop at the fact that people use boats to get around. To navigate to and through Kampong Ayer, residents use these boats, known as “water taxis” or “tambang.”
The houses in Kampong Ayer are a mix of traditional wooden structures built on stilts and more modern buildings. Some of the houses have ornate carvings and colorful paintwork. Wooden and concrete walkways connecting the buildings.
Over the years, there have been efforts to modernize and improve living conditions in Kampong Ayer while preserving its cultural heritage. Initiatives include upgrading housing and infrastructure, and providing better sanitation facilities.
You can explore Kampong Ayer on your own or on a tour. Some areas of Kampong Ayer have been developed as cultural and tourist attractions, but they are not that easy to find on your own. And with 30km of walkways, the village is big. So you might want to consider a tour.
Self-guided tour
If you prefer to DIY it, the easiest way to get there is to hop on a water taxi for the 2-minute, BND$2 ride across the river.
The Brunei Tourism Office provides a really helpful brochure with the key sites and attractions. But even using the guide, it pays to plan out your route in advance so you can hit the sites of most interest to you.
We wandered around a bit aimlessly, and didn’t find any shops or galleries to go into. It was still interesting, but I feel like we missed out on really learning about the way of life in the village
Guided tour
There are times when a guided tour is better; this is one of them. A guide will take you to some unique spots in the village, give you some history and background, and they usually finish by dropping into one of the homes for a snack and chat with locals.
Your hotel can probably set you up with a tour. If you look online, Freme offers a the B02 City & Water Village Tour for BND$70. Klook also offers a Brunei Water Village Tour for US$72 for 2 people (prices, of course, may change).
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque (Masjid Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien)
The Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is probably the most iconic landmark in Bandar Seri Begawan. If I had to guess, I’d say it’s probably the most photographed building in Brunei. And rightly so!
It’s a beautiful building set in a serene location on the banks of the Brunei River in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan. It is partly surrounded by an artificial lagoon, which adds drama and makes for the most gorgeous reflections.
And the sunsets hit right.
Apart from its religious importance, the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is a symbol of Brunei’s cultural and national identity. It was named after Omar Ali Saifuddien III, the 28th Sultan of Brunei, and was completed in 1958.
The mosque is crowned with a distinctive dome covered in pure gold leaf, giving it that extra glow. The mosque has four minarets adorned with intricate designs.
The interior of the mosque is serene, but not the fanciest I have ever seen. (I admittedly have seen some pretty amazing mosques!)
Visitors are welcome to explore the mosque’s exterior during the daytime, including the courtyard and gardens. Non-Muslims are only allowed inside a small area at the entrance of the prayer hall.
There are specific visiting guidelines and restrictions to learn about before your visit. Most importantly, they have loaner cloaks for both men and women to wear inside.
You’l notice a boat-looking thing in the moat to the south of the mosque—it’s the Royal Barge, a stone replica of a“mahligai”, a 16th-century royal barge. Apparently there was a time when you could walk out onto the Royal Barge, but it was very much gated off when we were there in August 2023.
If you see nothing else in Bandar Seri Begawan, you must visit Omar Ali Saifuddien—even if it’s only from the outside. Come just before sunset. Thank me later.
Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque (Masjid Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah)
Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, also known simply as Jame’ Asr Mosque, is “the other” mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan, and is one of the largest mosques in Southeast Asia. I’d say it’s a bit more elaborate—but less classy—than the Omar Ali Saifuddien mosque.
Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque was built to commemorate the 25th year of the reign of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, the 29th (and current) Sultan of Brunei. It was inaugurated on July 14, 1994.
The mosque boasts a blend of modern and traditional Islamic architectural styles. It really stands out in the landscape with its striking golden dome and multiple minarets, surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens. It looks pretty dramatic, day or night!
The Jame’ Asr Mosque has the capacity to accommodate a large number of worshippers, both in its prayer hall and its surrounding grounds. The shoe racks alone give you an idea of how many people they expect!
The mosque’s interior is known for its fancy carpeting, chandeliers, and calligraphy.
You can walk around the grounds freely during the day (I think the gates close around 9pm). But there are specific days and times that you can visit the interior, so you will need to work your itinerary around them. As usual, non-Muslims are not allowed inside the prayer hall during prayer times (which change daily).
If you are unlucky like me, you will work your itinerary around the schedule and prayer times…and the mosque will still be closed for a special event! So yeah, I do not have any interior pictures for you.
Stroll the Brunei Waterfront and Taman Makhota Jubli Emas Park
The Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas Park is a beautiful, well-designed, and well-used public space tucked between the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Brunei Waterfront.
As the sun goes down and the heat of the day starts to burn, you will find half the town out and about, jogging, walking, playing with the kids, and riding with glee in the rental pedicab.
And everyone is dripping in sweat! It’s always hot and humid in Brunei.
BIBD Frame Brunei Darussalam
While you’re in the park, it’s worth a quick stop at the BIBD Frame Brunei Darussalam. The Frame is a silly, made-for-Instagram gimmick…but it does make for some pretty pictures of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.
Try not to be annoyed that the frame is not centered on the mosque…(just me?)
The BIBD Frame is located just south of the mosque near the mall, on the lawn of Taman Makhota Jubli Emas park. You can’t miss it.
Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mall
I’m not sure why this mall is on so many tour itineraries—it’s just a mall— but I thought I’d check it out for myself. It’s fine. It’s a mall.
If you do fancy a trip to the mall, this one does have a few things going for it.
First of all, it is very close to Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, and on a hot and humid day (i.e. every day) it provides a nice opportunity to cool down. The AC is on point (even bring a sweater!).
The east building (the one with the less fancy shops) has a food court with a variety of Asian food and drink options. Choose foods from Brunei, the Philippines, Afghanistan, China, and India, among others!
The east building also has a new swanky Brunei souvenir shop. A shop with souvenirs is rarer than you think! This shop has mostly t-shirts, but also offers magnets, mugs and other trinkets. You can even hire local clothes and have yourself a cheesy mini photo shoot with a choice of backdrops.
The west building has a pretty wide variety of fancy western shops, likely catering to locals with cash to spare. I’m not sure why you as a tourist would come all the way to Brunei to buy those things, but you do you.
The Big Wall Brunei
Tucked behind a tall slender white building near the mall is a bright and cheerful mural welcoming you to Brunei. It’s on the north side of the tall white building at the corner of Jalan Pretty, Jalan Roberts, and Jalan McArthur (you can find it on Google Maps by searching for the Big Wall Brunei).
The mural was designed by Guerilla Artchitects (not a typo) Studio and completed in January 2021 as part of the Jalan Roberts Pedestrian Project in order to “liven up sections of the capital”.
The colors and designs on the mural are symbolic, representing the rainforest and the vivid colors of Kampong Ayer. There are also fun paintings (what is a mural called when it’s on the ground?!) of local merchant boats on the ground.
Since the wall is north facing, your best bet for good lighting will be during the middle of the day.
There is also a fun colorful row of buildings across the street.
Istana Nurul Iman
Istana Nurul Iman (Palace of the Light of Faith) is the home of the current Sultan. It is the largest occupied residential palace in the world! Clocking in at two million square feet with 1800 rooms, this palace has it all.
Not surprisingly, you can’t actually visit the palace unless you are invited. I don’t know about you, but I don’t roll with that crowd.
So I wouldn’t actually recommend that you go too far out of your way to visit see the Sultan’s palace, as you can only peer through the gate. You can’t see the palace at all.
If the palace is on your way somewhere, however, it’s worth a ten-minute stop to admire the impeccable landscaping, two stoic guards, and the delicate ornamental archway that presumably leads to the palace.
You’ll actually get a better view of the golden palace roof on your river cruise. There is also a decent view from Taman Persiaran Damuan park along the river.
All that said… there is ONE way for ordinary people to set foot inside the actual palace.
Once a year there are three days after Ramadan (Hari Raya) when you can actually enter the palace and possibly even shake the hand of the Sultan or his wife (depending on your gender). The royals even provide food and gifts to their guests.
As you can imagine, this is a pretty popular event, so BSB will be super crowded—book your accommodations well in advance. For more information on visiting the palace, check out the official Istana Nurul Iman website.
Let me know if you go!
Explore Bandar’s Markets
Bandar Seri Begawan has a few markets to explore, offering produce to buy as well as prepared foods. Exploring markets is one of our favorite ways to learn about local culture!
Gadong Night Market (every night)
The Gadong night market is on everyone’s must-list for Brunei. And who doesn’t love a good night market?
To be honest, I enjoyed the market experience but didn’t love the food. But that doesn’t mean I regret going or that you shouldn’t check it out for yourself.
It’s a pleasantly smoky, lively scene with local families out for the evening, little kids in matching pajamas in tow. It’s a delightful slice of Brunei urban nightlife. I definitely enjoyed the people watching!
As for the food, with a few exceptions, it was stall after stall of grilled, fried, or sugary foods and sweet drinks. I had a few skewers and was not impressed (perhaps I chose wrong).
But look for the delicious fresh watermelon juice with no added sugar and some yummy little pancakes with coconut filling!
If you follow your nose, you will also find the durian section on the back side of the market (prime durian season is June to August). This place is hopping with durian lovers! It’s fun to watch them intensely inspecting the fruit as they select the perfect smelly specimen to delight their senses.
Indeed it was at Gadong night market that I finally took the leap and tasted a tiny red durian (Durian Kuning).
The red durian grows only in Borneo and is a super pretty orange color, milder in smell and taste than a traditional durian. I had to wear gloves!
The verdict? I didn’t love it, but it wasn’t terrible — you should try it. One day maybe I’ll get the courage to try the super funky regular durian.
Tamu Kianggeh Market (Fridays)
Tamu Kianggeh is another popular market. Fun fact: Queen Elizabeth II visited this very market on her trip to Brunei in 1998!
We stopped by the Tamu Kianggeh market in the middle of a random weekday, and it was not happening at all. There were maybe 20 stalls open, selling lovely fruits and vegetables.
None of the prepared food vendors were operating. If we were staying somewhere with a kitchen I would have gladly picked up some produce here, but as a general market scene it wasn’t too lively. I did get some tasty tangerines here though.
I asked a vendor when a good time was to come to the market, and she told me that Fridays were the happening day. We didn’t actually return on a Friday, but we did walk by and there were a lot of cars turning into the parking lot, so I’d say that’s the day to go.
Tamu Selera
The Tamu Selera night market is located near the Royal Regalia Museum and is said to be a great spot for prepared foods, frequented by locals. It is chock full of affordable food vendors with a variety of local and international cuisines.
It is only open at night, starting around 5pm and closing as late as 2am! This is the spot for your midnight munchies.
Full disclosure: we did not try this spot (hence no photos), but we wanted to!
Taste the local delicacy ambuyat
Brunei cuisine is similar to that of its neighbors, including Malaysia, Indonesia, and Singapore. So, expect a lot of rice, noodles, coconut, garlic, ginger, and spice.
There is one dish, however, that is typically Bruneian: ambuyat, the national dish of Brunei. You should try it.
(If you can’t make it to Brunei, the neighboring Malaysian areas of Sabah, Serawak and Labuan also enjoy ambuyat.)
Ambuyat is made from the heart of the sago palm tree. They make flour from the sago trunk then mix it with hot water to make the gummy, shiny, almost flavorless paste that is ambuyat. Diners then use conjoined chopsticks, called “candas”, to swirl up the ambuyat and dip it in a sour/spicy sauce (cacah) for flavor. You are supposed to swallow it without chewing.
Ambuyat is meant to be shared, and you will find that the only option to order seems to be a giant bowl of the stuff.
Ambuyat has important significance in Brunei. While Bruneians have been eating ambuyat for hundreds of years, it really had a moment during World War II. Japan cut off Brunei from its rice supply so people had to find other ways to fill their bellies. Cue a return to the old ways, and ambuyat became a staple on the Brunei table.
There are a few places to try ambuyat in BSB. We were recommended to go to Aminah Arif and Soto Pabo. We chose Soto Pabo, a fun restaurant on stilts over the Brunei River.
If you want to really get into it, try a local experience where you can learn to make it (check Viator, Airbnb, or TripAdvisor for options).
Ulu Temburong National Park
If you make it all the way to Bandar Seri Begawan, you owe it to yourself to spend a day or two at nearby Ulu Temburong National Park.
Ulu Temburong National Park is the best kept secret in Borneo! Because it has all that oil money, Brunei has not had to sell out its pristine rainforests to the palm oil companies. So about 53 percent of Brunei is protected rainforest. Ulu Temburong makes up quite a bit of that, with its 50,000 hectares (123,552 acres)—only 100 of which are open to visitors.
The main attraction of Ulu Temburong is the canopy walk, with views high above the rainforest canopy.
It is not for the faint of heart, and especially not for those with a fear of heights.
You have to climb up a steep hill to even get to the canopy walk. And then stairs. And more stairs.
They say this structure was built by the same people who build oil rigs, so it should be pretty sound. It felt pretty sound.
Part of the fun of the Ulu Temburong visit is the boat ride up the river in traditional “temuai” longtail boat to get to the start of the canopy walk.
When we were there it was a drought, so the boat men had to keep jumping out to pull the boat over the rocks.
On the way back, we were able to tube down to the lodge for the final section.
Just in time for a lovely lunch at the lodge.
Don’t think you can just rock up to Ulu Temburong. Like so many things in Brunei, you really have to plan in advance and arrange a tour. Our hotel arranged for our tour with Freme (yes, they are the main game in town). We spent BND$310 (around US$230) for two people, including transportation to and from Bandar Seri Begawan.
It’s a splurge, for sure, but it was a super fun day.
Where to Eat
I’ve already covered the main places to eat, including night markets, food courts, and ambuyat spots.
In downtown Bandar Seri Begawan you will also find a variety of restaurants from fast food (Burger King!) to Indian, Japanese, and local restaurants.
If you want to try more upscale dining and get out of downtown, there are a few options in the One Riverside complex. We met up with local friends who took us to Ximply Chriz, which offered tasty Western food. There were some other options there that also looked promising. But watch out for the resident crocodile!
Where to Stay
There aren’t really budget options for places to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan.
We stayed at the Capital Residence Suites and highly recommend it. It was reasonably priced at about US$75 per night for two of us, and included breakfast.
Most importantly, they have a little shuttle van that will drive you around town. They have a specific schedule and circuit, but they are willing to bend a little if you ask nicely (and they aren’t otherwise booked). They will even pick you up at the airport or bus stop. The hotel is also within walking distance of the main downtown attractions. Don’t think twice—book your stay here!
If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, you might consider supporting locals by spending a few nights in Kampong Ayer. You can find options like Kunyit 7 Lodge on Booking.com or Airbnb. Just remember that it’s hot and humid, so you might want to check if those places have AC, if that’s important to you. Did I mention it’s HOT and HUMID in Brunei?
Luxury
If you are looking for luxury, we hear the Empire Brunei is the place to be! It is a luxury 7-star resort originally built to host the sultan’s royal guests, but now welcoming foreign dignitaries like Bill Clinton and Prince Charles…and discerning regular people like you.
The Empire Brunei is located 20km north of town with direct views of the South China Sea. It has a golf course designed by Jack Niklaus, private beaches, swimming pools, six fine dining restaurants, a cinema, and a general air of gilted glittery opulence. And for all that, you can snag a room for as low as US$250 per night! Where else can you get all that luxury for a bargain price? You may never leave.
While it’s pretty far out of town, the hotel can arrange excursions and tours for you.
Getting Around
I love me some public transportation, but that is definitely not Brunei’s strong suit.
We mostly walked around, used the snazzy Capital Residence Suites shuttle, and got rides with Brunei’s rideshare app Dart Brunei. This is the only app (Apple and Android) that you can use in Brunei to hail a ride. Download it before you arrive!
Rides around Bandar Seri Begawan are relatively easy to find and reasonable cost. It shouldn’t cost more than a few dollars to get to anywhere in town.
There are apparently public “Franchise” buses that run around town, but they run infrequently, unpredictably, and only from 6am to 8pm. There are two lines (the blue Eastern and green Northern) that run to the airport—those might come in handy for your arrival or departure.
And of course, there’s always the water taxi to navigate the river and get across to Kampong Ayer.
Keep an eye on Brunei Tourism’s site for the latest updates to how to get around.
Getting Here
It’s not the easiest place to get to, but you can get to Bandar Seri Begawan by air, boat, bus or car.
Air
Four airlines fly into Brunei International Airport (BIA): Royal Brunei Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Air Asia, and Cebu Pacific. They serve major cities in Asia, such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Beijing, Tokyo, Manila, and Seoul. Royal Brunei also has flights to London (those Commonwealth ties!).
Bus
There is a famous bus service to Bandar Seri Begawan from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. It takes 7-10 hours and has four border crossings. It will fill up your passport with stamps! This is a budget-friendly option and a bit of a silly adventure. I recommend it for at least one way. It’s an odd adventure.
Boat
There is a 2-hour ferry to Labuan from the duty-free Labuan Federal Territory in Malaysia to Muara, Brunei, about an hour by bus or taxi from Bandar Seri Begawan.
Car
It takes about 5 hours to drive to Bandar Seri Begawan from Kota Kinabalu (the most likely place you’d be driving from). The best route takes the new Jambatan Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien causeway, and bypasses one of the border crossings that the bus still goes through (the bus does not use the causeway).
The roads in Brunei are generally good, and there isn’t much traffic.
Final Thoughts
So there’s more to see and do in Bandar Seri Begawan than you thought, right? Sure, it’s not a wild budget backpacker’s paradise, but it’s an interesting place to spend a few days learning about this little sultanate on the northern edge of Borneo.
I heard about a dish called “Gearbox” that was also a must try while in Brunei. Do you know it?
Yes! We had it at Soto Pabo. It is a very impressive dish, but mostly bone! It was interesting, but we probably wouldn’t order it again.