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Looking around El Cuyo’s mellow center of town you wonder what the heck you are going to do here for the next few days.
There’s not a lot going on. At some times of day it can even feel like a bit of a ghost town.
No hordes of tourists.
No party bars.
No souvenir shops.
Not even an ATM.*
And then you realize that is exactly why you are here: to get away from it all, and just relax.
But fear not, there are actually plenty of fun things to do to keep you busy in El Cuyo.
We spent five days in El Cuyo and I can say for certain that it was not enough. We were just beginning to feel like locals, with our favorite food spots and daily walks.
Honestly, I hesitated to write about the magic of El Cuyo. I don’t want it to change and become Isla Holbox…or, even worse, Tulum.
But…I figured my readers are exactly the kind of visitors that will appreciate it while not ruining it. Don’t prove me wrong!
(*I heard a rumor that El Cuyo got an HSBC ATM in early 2023!)
About El Cuyo
El Cuyo is a sleepy fishing village on the northern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula with fewer than 2,000 residents. It is situated on a narrow strip of land between the Gulf of Mexico and the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve, a protected area known for its diverse birds, wildlife and extensive mangrove forests.
It looks and feels like an island, but it is not.
El Cuyo is slowly beginning to gain traction as a tourist destination (with all the gentrification that comes with it, unfortunately). The beaches are not lined with exclusive hotels, loud restaurants, and rental cabanas. Instead there is just sand, shells, and turquoise water punctuated by the dives of hungry pelicans and the swooshing of kitesurfers.
While still a secret to most of us, El Cuyo has long been known as a hot spot for kite surfers. Drop by the beach any afternoon during kitesurf season and you will see why—the beach is empty of people and the winds hit just right to catch a sail.
The town itself is small and charming, with colorful buildings, narrow streets, and a central plaza. There are just enough restaurants, small shops, and hotels in town. But overall, El Cuyo remains relatively untouched by mass tourism.
While it sounds like paradise, and it is, it is NOT currently an ideal remote working location. I worked remotely during my stay and the wifi was TERRIBLE. And it wasn’t my Airbnb’s fault; the wifi connection is notoriously unreliable all over town. So until that situation improves I do not recommend El Cuyo for remote workers who need internet. But yay—that means you get to go to El Cuyo just to hang out and chill!
Also note that El Cuyo can be affected by tropical storms and hurricanes during the summer months. It is important to check weather forecasts and stay informed about any potential storms if you plan to visit El Cuyo (or anywhere in the Yucatán) during the summer months.
Read on for more information on all the fun things you can do in El Cuyo, including just chilling on the beach, if that’s your thing.
Things to do in El Cuyo
If you want to do more than relax on pristine white sand beaches and swim in clear blue waters, there is plenty more to do in El Cuyo! You can enjoy water activities and try a few different ways to explore the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve.
Here are the top things to do in El Cuyo:
- Relax on the beach
- Explore the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve
- Meander around town
- Take a Quad Bike tour to Las Coloradas
- Try your hand at kitesurfing, kayaking, or paddleboarding
- Go fishing
- Check out the fishing port
Relax on the beach
Calling all beach goers! El Cuyo’s beach is pristine and, unlike the Riviera Maya, is not lined with exclusive beach chairs owned by fancy hotels.
It’s easy to pick a spot and set up for the day. You can spend hours relaxing on the beach and watching pelicans dive-bomb for their lunch.
If you don’t want to deal with kitesurfers, head to the beach in the morning. The best winds start around noon, so that’s when the kitesurfers start. But honestly it’s really zen to watch them zipping back and forth!
Just know that there aren’t really any restaurants or vendors on the beach, so come prepared with your own drinks and snacks.
Explore the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve
One of the things that makes El Cuyo so special is the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve. The reserve was established by the Mexican government in 1979 to protect the over 300 species of birds, as well as crocodiles, sea turtles, and other wildlife.
Don’t confuse the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve. with Río Lagartos! Ría means “estuary” and rio means “river”. Río Lagartos is a town on the western edge of the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve.
At the right time of year, flamingos are the main event in the reserve. Peak flamingo spotting season in the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve is March/April to November. They start to migrate here from the Celestún Biosphere Reserve in March to mate, nest, and have their babies, usually sometime in June, before heading back to Celestún in November.
El Cuyo (along with Isla Holbox) is also apparently one of the most important nesting beaches for green and hawksbill sea turtles in the Mexican Caribbean. The nesting season is April to October. These ancient creatures are in danger of extinction, but the populations are starting to come back with increased protections. You can help! During the nesting season, you will need to follow some rules: don’t touch the turtles, don’t shine light on them or photograph with flash, don’t make noise, don’t step on their tracks, and keep a minimum of 10 meters distance.
A boat tour is the best way to experience the Reserve at any time of year.
We splurged and took a boat tour of the lagoon directly from the El Cuyo Mirador and had a great time.
We saw flamingos flying.
We saw flamingos wading.
We saw pelicans and horseshoe crabs (more like the remains).
We did the Baño Maya or “Mayan spa”
Mostly we just enjoyed a morning out on the water.
If you want to find a boat tour, you will see signs around town. They are a little pricey since you basically have to hire the whole boat, regardless of the number of people. As a point of reference, in 2022 we paid MX$2000 for our 5-hour (or so) boat tour with Luis. If you can find more people to share the cost, even better.
You will probably get closer to flamingos on a tour from Río Lagartos or Las Coloradas.
Meander around town
What’s better than wandering around town with no purpose or agenda? Nothing! And El Cuyo is the perfect place to do it. You’ll discover little slices of life, small shops you might not have heard of, and the occasional…horse.
Murals
All around town you will see tropical murals with flamingos, turtles, jaguars, lighthouses and all the things that make El Cuyo special.
What is Palmar mindful spritz?!? If you have spent any time wandering around El Cuyo, then you have seen a lot of colorful flamingo murals with “Palmar mindful spritz” on them. What the heck is this?
Turns out, Palmar is a Mexican brand of hard seltzer. While it is VERY hard to find in Mexico and in El Cuyo, it is actually quite delicious! It comes in four flavors: peach (durazno), passion fruit (maracuya), red fruits (frutos rojos), and blueberry (new flavor!). Pro tip: you can find it at Chedraui supermarkets in the bigger cities…and on Amazon in Mexico. Most importantly, Palmar donates 10% of its profits to flamingo conservation work in El Cuyo through the Fundación Pedro y Elena Hernández. So there you go, it actually makes sense.
If only you could find some…(psst, I hear they might have some at Autoservicio La Sirenita, across from the church).
Lighthouse
The red and white striped lighthouse welcomes you El Cuyo. Faro El Cuyo is supposedly built on top of Mayan ruins and offers the best views of the town.
Word has it that you can ask the Capitania de Puerto across the street for the key to climb the lighthouse.
Fishing Port
El Cuyo is, at its heart, a fishing town. Although in conversations with locals, we learned that because of overfishing it is becoming more and more difficult to make a living as a fisherman. That fact, combined with increasing demand for real estate, means that more and more fishermen are throwing in the towel and selling their property to move to the big city (Tizimín, in this case). It would be a shame to lose this heritage, but at the same time you can’t blame them for wanting to cash in on the real estate boom.
For now there are still plenty of fishermen doing the work of bringing in the daily catch. You can find them at the fishing port at the western edge of town.
It’s a good reminder of the reality of daily life here for so many.
For the best views, head over there are sunset where you can see the sun dropping down over another small lighthouse and watch the pelican show.
Take a Quad Bike tour to Las Coloradas
It seems like one of the most popular activities in El Cuyo is a day tour on quad bikes (cuatrimotos) to Las Coloradas and back. It’s a great combination of cruising along the reserve on dirt roads and delighting in the bright pink lakes.
It takes 2-3 hours each way to get to Las Coloradas, so plan for this activity to take up most of your day.
A lot of tour operators in town offer these tours. Just wander around and look for signs, or contact one of following local tour operators (links are to Facebook pages, which most local businesses use as their website).
ATV Tours El Cuyo / Servicios Turisticos El Cuyo (Arun Aguilar): Email serviciosturisticoselcuyo@gmail.com Phone/WhatsApp +52 986 153 7425
Happy Tours El Cuyo: Phone +52 986 122 4862 Whatsapp +52 986 105 5517
Camping del Ritmo Kite Club: Email campingdelritmo@gmail.com Phone +52 981 133 6080
Aventurate: Email saul_pacheco13@hotmail.com Phone +52 986 100 8907
Try your hand at kitesurfing (or paddleboarding)
Kitesurfing, also known as kiteboarding, is an extreme water sport that involves riding on a type of surfboard while being pulled by a large kite. The rider uses a harness attached to the kite to control its direction and speed, while the rider glides across the water on the board.
For those in the know, El Cuyo has great conditions for kitesurfing, namely calm, shallow waters and consistent winds. Basically, kitesurfers knew how great El Cuyo was way before everyone else.
It’s no surprise that there are a lot of kitesurfing schools in town, some of which offer equipment rentals to qualified kitesurfers. Here are the main ones:
Kitesurf Mexico offers kitesurfing equipment rentals and sales (with lessons or without) and private or group lessons for all levels.
El Cuyo Kite School (website is only in Spanish) offers kitesurfing equipment rentals and private or group lessons for all levels.
Extreme Control offers short-term and long-term kitesurfing and stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) equipment rentals (with lessons or without) and private or group lessons for all levels. They also offer kitesurfing and SUP tours.
ComeKiteWithUs offers private, semi-private, or group lessons for all levels
The wind season for kitesurfing in El Cuyo is during the winter months, between November and June. The best months are February through mid-June when the wind is most consistent and the water is comfortably warm. The reliable winds usually pick up between noon and sunset.
I did not try kitesurfing on my trip to El Cuyo, but was very tempted! In addition to being a bit out of my comfort zone, it’s a bit pricey. But I think I will do it next time!
Go fishing
El Cuyo is also known for its excellent fishing opportunities, with a variety of fish species to be found in the Gulf of Mexico. You can hire a local guide to take you out on a fishing trip and try your luck at catching your own dinner. Look for signs for local tours or inquire with the companies listed above for quadbike tours.
Where to Eat
Don’t be fooled, even though El Cuyo is not touristy, there are a few dining gems in town—we had some of our best meals (and paletas!) in Mexico here—and more great spots are starting to pop up. Here is a short list of places we enjoyed (and one we didn’t). I know there are a bunch of other good restaurants in town; don’t be afraid to check those out as well. For example, El Chile Gordo is a local favorite, and Mimisuku looks like a hot new place.
Breakfast / Lunch
Naia Café & Restaurant
Naia is a vegan digital nomad’s paradise. They very much cater to foreigners with both their menu (lots of vegan and vegetarian options) and free wifi and good coffee in a lovely setting. They aspire to be a social enterprise, teaching their staff English and hospitality skills. In addition to all that, the food is beautiful and actually quite tasty!
La Conchita
La Conchita is the place to go for your classic Mexican breakfast and lunch dishes, like huevos rancheros. It’s cute on the outside and a lot bigger than you think. Portions are generous and everything is tasty.
La Barcaccia
La Barcaccia isn’t known for its breakfast, but that’s the meal we had there. The breakfast menu has good options and the food was fresh and delicious. Seating is semi-outside, so it’s a pleasant place to spend your morning.
Dinner
Casa La Palma
Casa La Palma is a total beach vibe. It’s outside on the sand, with a fire pit (for s’mores!) and mellow tunes. The menu is mostly empanadas, pastas, and pizza, and they have the most delicious pizza crust I have ever had in my life.
Zapote
Zapote had just opened a few weeks before we got there, and wow, it was an amazing meal. It’s a tiny restaurant, maybe six tables, run by an experienced chef and his wife. They cook everything over a wood fire. The simple menu changes every day and they usually have a meat, fish, and vegetarian option. The ceviche was amazing! They also have some tasty cocktail offerings. Don’t skip this place!
Taqueria Gonzalez
If you just want a classic taco, then Taqueria Gonzalez, the giant red tent right off the main plaza, is your spot. They’ve got all the classic Mexican fare, including tacos, quesadillas, tortas with a variety of meat options. It is more of a late-night spot, as it doesn’t open until 8:30pm.
El Chori Palma food truck
This hipster food truck does not actually move around, but it has settled in a sweet spot with a cool vibe. They offer choripan (a classic Argentinian sandwich with chorizo), fish and chips, and a lechon sandwich. Everything is very tasty.
Not Recommended
On the subject of dinner and drinks, I do not recommend Aroma. While the setting and hotel (La Casa Cielo) are beautiful, I had the worst margarita of my life there. I think it was made with Rose’s lime juice, the horror—it was undrinkable. We also had a ceviche and aguachile, which were acceptable but not worth going back for, especially when Zapote is serving amazing ceviche just around the corner. Unless they’ve improved their margarita, I won’t be back.
Dessert
La Paleteria del Cuyo
This little popsicle (paleta) stand on the main road across from La Conchita has the most delectable paletas. They have a variety of fruit or dairy paletas. The papaya coco one was sooo delicious! I wish I had one right now.
Papas y Churros Los 3 Hermanos
I did not get around to trying this dessert stand in the main square in front of the church, but there was always a line, so I think it must be good. If you haven’t tried marquesitas, go get yourself one!
Where to Buy Groceries and Alcohol
There aren’t any supermarkets in El Cuyo so it can be a struggle to buy groceries if you are planning on cooking. That said, a few thousand people live in El Cuyo and they get their food from somewhere, so it can be done!
General Groceries and Supplies
Tienda La Perla is not on Google Maps, but is on the main street Calle 21, across from the park. You can’t miss it with its giant flamingo façade.
Autoservicio La Sirenita has a little bit of everything, including beer.
Fruits and Vegetables
Your best bet for vegetables fresh fruit and vegetables is on the main street beside the Six. The little tiendas around town also carry some fruits and vegetables but you might have to go to a few to get everything you need.
There are ladies regularly selling fruits and vegetables in the morning in front of the El Tiburon restaurant on the main road into town (you can see them in El Tiburon photos on Google maps!).
Meat
Carniceria El Guero on the western side of town.
Carniceria 2 Hermanos on the main road into town.
Carniceria D’tostonoch on the eastern side of town.
Fish
Pescaderia El Amigo Pato on the main road as you enter town.
Bread
There are three panaderias (bread shops) with classic offerings close to the center of town.
Panaderia La Reina
Panaderia Las Mercedes
Panaderia Calleja
Tortillas
There is surprisingly only one spot to buy tortillas in El Cuyo: Tortilleria Las 5 Calles (Aguilar Alamilla Lucelly Tortilleria on Google Maps).
Alcohol
Just know that this is a beer and whiskey town and it is hard to find tequila. If that’s important to you, you might want to bring some with you.
Modelorama: you can find beer and other beverages at the Modelorama.
Autoservicio La Sirenita: if you are lucky you might find some Palmar spritz in this convenience store!
Six: Any Six store should have a few bottles of beer, and sometimes whiskey.
Valerio’s: in our quest to find tequila we were directed to this restaurant…and indeed they were happy to sell bottles of liquor for a reasonable price (although the selection was sparse—no judgment!).
Where to stay
The accommodations options are growing fast as more and more short-term rentals come online. In addition to the usual Airbnb and VRBO, the Everything El Cuyo / Todo El Cuyo Facebook page is a good resource to find short-term rentals.
Budget
Casa Mama Hostel
Casa Mama is close to the beach and offers a variety of cabañas at a range of prices and a shared kitchen. People like the good family vibe…and horses!
Camping del Ritmo & Kite Club
Camping del Ritmo offers cozy decent-sized tents with shared facilities (with reportedly clean toilets and kitchen). They also have a kite school and a restaurant.
Moderate
Villa Ixchel
We stayed in a little Airbnb apartment called Villa Ixchel toward the west part of town. It had a little balcony with hammocks and we had access to a shared rooftop deck with nice views. We would definitely stay here again!
Casa Cuyo Hotel
Guests really like the location and quiet atmosphere at Casa Cuyo Hotel. The rooms are spacious and clean and guests have access to hammocks and communal areas.
Luxury
The higher-end hotels are on the east edge of town, a little further away from everything. But nothing is really very far in El Cuyo.
La Casa Cielo
I didn’t love the restaurant, but the hotel looks like a really beautiful place to stay. It is adults only, has oceanfront views of the beach, and a swimming pool. The décor is very modern and clean-looking. Breakfast is included.
Cucu Hotel & Kite El Cuyo
Cucu Hotel is a small 6-room hotel with a pool. It is a relatively new addition and is well-reviewed both in terms of the facilities and staffing. They have also just opened a kitesurfing school. It does not yet have a restaurant, so you will have to meander into town for your meals.
Casa Mia El Cuyo Eco Beach Boutique Hotel
Casa Mia is its own little oasis almost at the easternmost edge of town near Kite Beach. It has three private Rooms, a suite and a penthouse apartment. Guests can access a shared kitchen and living space on the ground floor. Reviews of the amenities and staff are glowing. The Extreme Control Kite school is on site here.
Getting Around
El Cuyo is a tiny town. Most of the roads are paved with sand and most activities and restaurants are in easy walking distance of anywhere you are likely to stay.
Walk
We didn’t have any kind of wheels in El Cuyo, and found it very easy and pleasant to get around just walking. As always, walking is the best place to explore. It is easier to meet locals and have casual conversations when you are strolling.
Quad Bike/ATV (Cuatrimoto) or Golf Cart
In addition to taking a guided quad bike tour, you can rent a quad bike just to get around town. Quad bikes are annoyingly noisy and bad for the environment, but I will say people riding them looked like they were having a lot of fun!
There are places around town renting out quad bikes by the day or by the hour—just ask around or look for the signs. Happy Tours El Cuyo does advertise ATV rentals on its Facebook page (Phone +52 986 122 4862 Whatsapp +52 986 105 5517).
Bicycle
If you need to get around a little quicker than walking, or want to get farther faster, hire a bike! A few places in town rent bikes:
My Tours El Cuyo Yucatan Email mariohnz2001@gmail.com Phone +525571333088
Happy Tours El Cuyo: Phone +52 986 122 4862 Whatsapp +52 986 105 5517
La Casita Verde Phone +52 999 243 4792
Camping del Ritmo: Email campingdelritmo@gmail.com Phone +52 981 133 6080
Zazil Ha Email Amigosdelcaribecoral@gmail.com Phone +52 55 7133 3088
Car
A car is mostly useful for getting to El Cuyo and getting out. Unless you have mobility issues, you don’t need a car to get around. It’s much more pleasant to walk or bike around.
Getting Here
El Cuyo is not an island but it might as well be. There’s only one road in and out, and it’s not really close to any major roads.
- It takes 2.5 to 3 hours to drive to or from Cancun Airport, depending on time of day and whether you take the toll road or not.
- It takes about 2 hours to drive to or from Chiquilá. This is the town where you get the ferry to/from Isla Holbox.
- It takes about 3.5 hours to drive to or from Mérida.
Public transportation will get you here, but it won’t be easy or quick. Read on for your transportation options.
Car
Driving yourself is by far the fastest and easiest way to get to El Cuyo. Be aware that most of the driving will be on small two-ish lane roads with frequent speed bumps (topes) and no streetlights, so it’s best to drive during the day. Those topes can really sneak up on you!
Having your own car also gives you the advantage of being able to do a little shopping for supplies for your stay (especially food and drink) before you get there.
You don’t really need the car while you are there, so you have to decide whether it’s worth it to spend the money on the convenience of a car rental.
Rideshare
There are people regularly driving from El Cuyo to Colonia or Tizimín—and sometimes Cancun—who are eager to share the costs of the ride.
You will find these people in the Everything El Cuyo / Todo El Cuyo Facebook group. There are a few people active on the site who can provide transportation (for $ of course) or point you to resources. If you search or post on Facebook far enough in advance (at least a week) you might be able to find a ride to share.
Taxi
I would be surprised if an actual taxi at a taxi stand would be spontaneously willing to take to you El Cuyo from Cancun airport. But you can try.
A taxi from Tizimín should cost around MX$450.
A taxi from Colonia Yucatán should cost around MX$150-200.
Shuttle
The easiest way to make the trip from Cancun is to arrange in advance for a shuttle service. Expect to pay around US$200 from Cancun, prices vary depending on the number of people in the car.
There are a few companies that I know of that have received positive reviews (links are to Facebook pages):
- Taxi El Cuyo Yucatan: Email: alangonzalezeuan@gmail.com Whatsapp: +52 986 861 8596
- Holbox Shuttle: Email: info@holboxshuttle.com Whatsapp: +52 984 135 6451 www.holboxshuttle.com
- Servicios Turísticos El Cuyo: Email: serviciosturiscoselcuyo@gmail.com Whatsapp: +52 9861547425
- Alomar Tours and Transfers: Whatsapp: +52 998 845 3498. As of February 2023 they quoted prices of MX$3400 for 1-4 people and MX$3700 for 5-8 people.
If you hop on the Everything El Cuyo / Todo El Cuyo Facebook page you will find these and plenty of other people willing to drive you wherever you need to go.
Bus
If you know me, you know I love to get around by local bus!
But getting to El Cuyo by local bus requires a lot of patience and grit. Knowing a little Spanish also helps. I have all these things and I still ended up abandoning my local bus dreams and hiring an expensive taxi to get to El Cuyo. I did manage to get from El Cuyo to Mérida by bus though, so it’s definitely possible!
I encourage you to give the bus a try if you are a hardcore budget traveler looking for that local experience.
Bus schedule information is weirdly hard to come by and does change, so try to confirm timings before embarking on your journey. For some reason Yucatán bus companies seem to rely on Facebook to share up to date schedule information, so those are the links I have included below.
Keep in mind that the shortest distance trip (ie. Cancun to Colonia to El Cuyo) might not be the fastest due to long wait times between buses.
If you are leaving El Cuyo by bus, the Noreste picks you up in the main square in front of the covered ball court next to the church. When we took the bus, it did take a quick ride a few blocks around town before rolling out, but to be safe, be there early to make sure you are in the right spot.
From Colonia Yucatán
The first thing you need to know is that all buses (and cars) to El Cuyo go through Colonia Yucatán. Colonia Yucatán is where you turn off the main road (15) for El Cuyo and is the closest decent size town to El Cuyo. But it still doesn’t have a lot going on.
From Colonia Yucatán, you will be catching the Noreste Tizimín to El Cuyo bus as it passes through Colonia Yucatán. I have not personally experienced getting on the bus here, but all the information I have found says you catch the bus on the main road Colonia Yucatán-Kantunilkin near the Neveria Basulto (opposite side of the street if you are going to El Cuyo). It’s Mexico…they would probably stop and let you on even if that’s not the exact right spot.
There are also minivans running a similar route to the Noreste buses, but they are reportedly not as reliable, especially as they wait until they have enough people in order to run.
The last bus or minivan from Colonia to El Cuyo is at 6:30pm.
In good news, there is a taxi stand nearby in case you miss the bus or just can’t wait any longer. If you can find a taxi, it is about a 30-minute drive to El Cuyo from here and should cost you about MX$150-200.
From Tizimín
Tizimín is a larger town where people in El Cuyo go for their “big shopping”. Because it is the closest best shopping town, there are often carpool offers to Tizimín on the El Cuyo Facebook page.
Noreste offers a direct bus between Tizimín and El Cuyo seven times per day, starting at 5am with the last bus at 6pm. (Those buses also pass through Colonia).
From Cancun Airport and Riviera Maya
Take the ADO bus from Cancun Airport to Cancun Centro. Buses run at least once per hour and it usually takes around 30-45 minutes depending on traffic. Then follow directions below from Cancun Centro.
From Cancun Centro
Take the Noreste bus (I have heard buses are at 6am and 9am) bus to Colonia (about 3 hours).
There is also a Mayab bus (most recently the schedule was 9:30am, 10:30am, 12:30pm, 3:30pm, 4:50pm, 6:50pm).
Whichever bus you choose, make sure when you are buying your ticket, and when you are getting on the bus, that the bus is stopping in Colonia Yucatán.
From Merida
There is a Noreste bus from Mérida to Tizimín twice a day at 2pm and 8pm that takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes (per Facebook as of March 2023).
From Tizimín take the Noreste bus to El Cuyo. See From Tizimin above.
If the Noreste schedule does not work for you, take the ADO bus from Merida to Valladolid (there are a few buses each hour). From Valladolid, take the ADO bus to Tizimín (they run about once per hour).
From Tizimín take the Noreste bus to El Cuyo. See From Tizimin above.
Note that the ADO and Noreste stations in Tizimín are not the same, but they are right next to each other.
From Isla Holbox
El Cuyo and Isla Holbox are only about 30 kms apart, but unless you can find a way to get there by boat (see below), it’s a long trip.
There is supposedly a Noreste bus from Chiquilá to Colonia Yucatán via Kantunilkín, running about five times per day. The bus stop is in the parking lot to the right after you get off the ferry, by the pelicans. The schedule, however, is elusive (this painted sign is so old as to be not reliable!).
If you do get lucky and catch the bus, make sure to get off at Colonia Yucatán. Then hop on the next Noreste bus, minivan, or taxi to El Cuyo.
We waited well over an hour for a bus that never materialized and ultimately negotiated the two-hour ride with a taxi for around US$100. Honestly if you want to make this trip I would recommend arranging a shuttle in advance.
Useful Bus Company information
It’s hard to find bus schedule and price information online, which makes it hard to plan. You’ll get the best information at the bus stations, or maybe by calling. Sometimes these companies have current information on their Facebook pages. Here is some information to help you try to get in touch with them.
ADO
Noreste
Mayab
- Whatsapp +52 999 363 0809
Boat (from Isla Holbox)
It is about 30 km between El Cuyo and Isla Holbox and takes about one hour in a little boat.
There has been talk of a ferry between Isla Holbox and El Cuyo but it has yet to materialize. The project has been mired in politics and local opposition. Furthermore, the port at El Cuyo does not currently have the infrastructure to support a ferry. Stay tuned.
In the absence of a ferry, we looked into hiring a boat to take us from Isla Holbox to El Cuyo, but there is some weird permit requirement that makes it really expensive for a boat to take you to El Cuyo, adding US$100 or so to the cost. The towns are in two different states so that might have something to do with it.
We were told we could probably find someone to take us on the down low, but they risk big fines and loss of their permits. So I don’t recommend it.
However, it is apparently much easier to arrange a boat from El Cuyo to Isla Holbox! None of the shenanigans apply. Several operators can arrange a day trip for you—you just have to ask around town. I imagine they can also just drop you off, but probably for not much less since they still have to get back. Something to consider in sequencing your visit it you are planning to go to both places.
Resources
There’s not a lot of information out there on El Cuyo, but there are a few resources that are really helpful.
ElCuyo.net was born to meet the need for up-to-date information about this charming town. The site has a lot of good basic info about El Cuyo, including accommodation, restaurants, and activities. Their How to get to El Cuyo page is particularly helpful, especially with minivan schedule information. The site is kept somewhat up to date.
Everything El Cuyo / Todo El Cuyo Facebook page. As mentioned before, this is the go-to spot to connect with locals and fellow travelers real-time on the ground. It’s a really good place to find accommodation, rideshares, restaurant recommendations, and tour information. Just remember to post your questions a few weeks in advance if you can, as people do not seem to be on there every day (probably due to crappy internet).
Final Thoughts
I think you’ll agree that El Cuyo is a relatively undeveloped and unspoiled area, with a laid-back, relaxed atmosphere that makes it a popular destination for travelers seeking a quieter, more authentic Mexican experience.
It is an ideal place to experience the natural beauty and laid-back lifestyle of the Yucatan Peninsula. But it doesn’t mean you have to deprive yourself—there are a few gems of restaurants to take your experience up another notch.
I can’t wait to get back to El Cuyo…I hope it doesn’t change too much too fast!
Want to learn about other beautiful but less well-known places to discover in the Yucatán? Check out this 12 Amazing Places to Visit in the Yucatán (That Aren’t Cancun) post.
