If you are looking for a quiet beach town in the Gulf of Mexico, Sisal is your place. Sisal is the perfect place to set up on the beach and watch flamingos fly overhead, squabbling with each other the whole way (flamingos are noisy!). Spend the day hanging out under a straw umbrella sipping on a cold beer or cocktail, and trying new seafood dishes.
This is where you come to get away from it all.
A Very Brief History of Sisal
There was a time when Sisal was a booming port town. In the early 1800s Sisal was the main shipping port for the Yucatán during the “henequen boom”. Henequen, or “green gold”, is an agave-derived sisal fiber used for making ropes, which were essential for the shipping industry back in the day.
The glory was short-lived, however, as the main port moved further north to Progreso in 1845 for quicker access to Mérida. And Sisal went back to being a sleepy fishing town.
Sisal was designated as a Pueblo Mágico (magic town) in 2020 and the townspeople are not here for it. They never asked to be a Pueblo Mágico and they are not interested in the inevitable onslaught of outside investors scooping up their prime beachfront properties, bringing in hordes of tourists, raising costs, and ruining their smalltown lifestyle. They are happy just being a small fishing village.
There are currently 132 Pueblos Mágicos throughout Mexico. Per visitmexico.com “The Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) designation is awarded to those communities that over time have maintained their original architecture, traditions, history and culture. As well as to those that have been of great relevance to the country’s history.”
And for now it still is. But change is in the air.
If you pull up google maps satellite view and look to the east of town you will see two massive areas that seem to already have streets laid out for development. If those are developed it could easily triple or quadruple the number of homes in town. Everyone would have to come through the main street into town to get there…so I can see why the locals might worry about traffic and crowds—and if their infrastructure can handle it.
Things to do in Sisal
So what are the best things to do in Sisal?
Honestly, there’s not a lot to do here—and that’s why you come here. There’s something to be said for a place without a lot of attractions…especially when they have a beautiful beach! Most activities revolve around the beach, flora, fauna, and water:
- Relax on the beach
- Spot flying flamingos
- Visit the museum and lighthouse
- Learn about nature from the experts on a guided tour
- Kitesurfing
- Scuba diving and snorkeling
The Beach
The beach at Sisal is beautiful. It winds itself along the edge of town like a sparkly white ribbon, accentuated by the ebb and flow of the dazzling turquoise water of the Gulf of Mexico.
You should park yourself somewhere along this beach and enjoy the beauty of it all.
Seek a little shade by renting a palapa for MX$150 for the day, or bring your own umbrella or tent.
On any given day, it’s hella humid and the sun is blazing hot, so pack accordingly. Bring a good hat and lots of sunscreen (reef-safe, of course, if you are even thinking about going in the water).
Right near the town sign, there are bathrooms and changing rooms available for a small fee of MX$5-10.
Be mindful that the wind can pick up in the afternoons, but that’s no reason to not stick around for a beautiful sunset. Head out on the pier and you can look due west for that perfect sun drop over the ocean.
Flamingo Spotting
It was in Sisal that we had our first magical flamingo encounter (in mid-March). There we were just hanging out on the pier and we spotted a mass of black bird specks in the distance, coming our way.
It didn’t take long for us to recognize those elegant long necks, and then the hot pinks started to emerge—it was a massive flock of flamingos flying overhead! And they kept on coming all afternoon, all chatty with their gossip, trying to follow the leader. It was a true spectacle—and it never got old!
Sisal is in the direct flight path between Celestún, where flamingos nest from November to March, and Rio Lagartos where flamingos flaunt their stuff during mating season from April to November.
Sisal itself is surrounded by the 48000 hectare (almost 120,000 acres) protected Reserva Estatal El Palmar, which is also a popular spot for flamingos to visit, and why you might see some on a mangrove tour at some times of year.
Museum and Lighthouse
The only real tourist attraction other than the beach is a small fort with a museum about the town, and a lighthouse (which has been closed in the pandemic). The Fuerte de Santiago was built to help defend against pirates in the mid 1800s. The lighthouse (el Faro) was added in 1845.
Take a Tour: Mangroves, Fishing, Snorkeling, Scuba
One of the best ways to get to know the local flora and fauna is to take a tour through the mangroves and into the bird sanctuaries—depending on the time of year, you might even spot some flamingoes! The guides are generally super-knowledgeable and make sure not to disrupt (or let you disrupt) the fragile ecosystem. Tours generally last around two hours and cost around MX$400 / US$20 per person.
There are quite a few well-reviewed tour operators in town that offer kayak, canoe, or chalana (flat-bottomed boat) tours to the mangroves and other cool spots within the reserve:
Agua del Mar Sisal Recorridos Ecoturisticos offers mangrove tours in kayaks or canoes and has English-speaking guides, even though the website is only in Spanish.
Motoventurs Sisal offers mangrove tours in kayaks or canoes and has English-speaking guides, even though the website is only in Spanish.
Ziz Ha Tours Sisal (on Facebook) is a cooperative that offers a variety of tours including canoe/kayak mangrove toures, snorkeling, diving, and fishing. They even have a Crocodile Night tour! The guide Enrique Mex is said to be extremely knowledgeable.
They also offer a 6-hour tour (Tour Bocana) through four different ecosystems: sea, lagoon, mangroves and springs and a picnic on the beach. MX$4500 per boat, or MX$1000 per person.
It’s not clear if this is a different operation than Ziz Ha, but the Parador Turistico Palapa El Zurdo is a restaurant and also offers a variety of tour packages and the same guide (hola Enrique!) as Ziz Ha.
Casa Balam Hostel (on Facebook) also offers tours through the mangroves and to the Ojo de Agua cenote. I hear they also rent kayaks and paddleboards.
Kitesurfing
Sisal may not (yet?) be as known for kitesurfing as El Cuyo, but apparently it is gaining in popularity. While it can be breezy in the afternoon all year long, March through July are the best months for the thermal winds ideal for kitesurfing, although March can be a bit iffy due to late norte winds. There are a few operators in town.
Sisal Kite offers lessons and kitesurfing experiences for riders of all skill levels.
El Viento Kitesurfing is a women-owned business that offers kitesurfing and wingfoiling lessons for individuals and groups, including all the gear. They also offer downwind trips, which look pretty awesome. They can also order gear for you (but do not have items in stock).
When to go
It may be hot in Sisal all year long, but some times of year are better for certain activities than others.
Winter (December to March) is a great time for exploring the mangroves and watching the bird migrations.
Spring (April to June) is also great for boating through the mangroves, and spotting flamingos. There are also more opportunities for snorkeling.
Summer (July to September) is the time to get out on the sea, go fishing, and snorkel or scuba the shipwrecks.
Fall (October to November) is when you get back to earth to do explore the jungle, go crocodile hunting, and start up birdwatching again.
Just remember that June 1 to November 30 is Atlantic hurricane season. There could be zero hurricanes, or you could find yourself running from a megastorm. Don’t let that stop you from planning a trip, but I recommend travel insurance just in case.
Where to Eat
The best place to eat is under a palapa at the beach! There are a few places just to the right of the pier (I think officially called Los Corsarios) that will let you hang out under their umbrellas as long as you order food and drinks. As with most beachfront dining spots with stellar views, they are not really known for their food; it’s fairly basic but gets the job done. The sun can be fierce out on the beach, so it’s worth it to be in the shade.
Wherever you eat, seafood is going to be the star of the menu. Expect to have ceviche, coctel de camaron, and fish prepared any which way (maybe even with coconut). A few local specialties you might not have heard of are pan de cazon (layers of tortillas with baby shark/dogfish in between, covered in tomato sauce) and empanada de raya (made with manta ray), and any fish prepared “tikin xic” style (marinated in achiote and sour orange juice, wrapped in banana leaf and ideally cooked in an earthen oven, or steamed).
Sisal is certainly not known for its fine dining, but there are a few well-regarded establishments close to the beach, starting with La Juanita on the main street with an approachable menu with all the classics. Restaurante Muelle de Sisal is right on the beach, a little fancier, and boasts and extensive seafood-focused menu. Zamá Restaurante which has a more hipster vibe (I see you, avocado toast!) and more attention to delightful presentation – but you won’t have much or any seafood selection here. Note that all of these places close at 5 or 6pm, so plan accordingly.
Next time I go I want to try Parador Turistico Palapa El Zurdo – I think its part tour company, part restaurant, but its pretty close to where the fisherman come in, so I bet the seafood is super fresh!
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the little ice cream shop by the Sisal sign. It’s actually just an abarrotes (sundries) shop that sells ice cream. The coconut ice cream is quite delicious, though also quite sweet. Eat it fast because it melts in no time in that Yucatán heat!
Where to stay
Sisal has precious few hotels, so if you are planning to stay overnight and want to book online, you might want to plan ahead. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of places to stay. There are quite a few home rentals and other small hotels or guesthouses that are not on Airbnb or Booking.com; you will have to contact them via the information available on google maps.
Budget
Probably one of the budgetiest places you can stay in Mexico is Casa Balam Hostel. Forget the bunkbeds, for a mere MX$100 you can rent a hammock or a tent, or put up your own tent. It’s rustic, but people (those hardcore backpacker types) love it.
Moderate
Hotel La Casona de Sisal is the main hotel close to the center of town and gets pretty good recent reviews. At around US$70 per night, it’s a solid option. You can reserve on booking.com
Casa Kinich Sisal has four quaint bungalows and little garden with a swimming pool, also around US$70 per night. You can reserve on booking.com or Airbnb.com.
Hotel El Faro Sisal is not on online booking services, so you will have to contact them directly to book (the website and all reviews are in Spanish, so I can’t promise that they speak English). They are close to the beach and have a nice patio overlooking the water.
Luxury
The only luxury option is Club de Patos, a super chill fancy 9-room eco-lodge tucked away on the eastern edge of town, for a steep US$500+ per night. Reviews are very positive for the rooms, service, and food. If you want to get away in luxury, this is your spot!
Getting Here
It is unlikely that you will be trying to get to Sisal from anywhere other than Mérida, so all directions are from Mérida.
By Car
As in much of the Yucatán, the easiest and quickest way to get to Sisal is to drive. It takes about an hour from the center of Mérida. About half the trip is on a modern highway, until you get to Hunucmá where you have to wind through town and the road thins down towards Sisal. Overall it’s an easy drive.
By Taxi
It will cost you many hundreds of pesos, but taking a taxi or Uber to Sisal from Mérida is an option. Honestly, I would worry about finding a taxi or Uber to take you back to Mérida, but you can probably make arrangements in advance or take a bus back.
By Bus
There are limited bus options from Mérida to Sisal, and online bus information in the Yucatán is woefully inadequate. The Ruta de Autobuses Oriente Facebook page seems to be the best place to get information for buses between Mérida and Sisal.
Autobuses Oriente operates a bus from Mérida Noreste to Sisal a few times a day, depending on the day.
By Colectivo
You will probably have more scheduling options with the colectivos, but keep in mind these are much smaller buses, often without air conditioning, more crowded, and less predictable. Don’t expect to travel in comfort.
Pick up the colectivo in Mérida on Calle 64 between 65 and 67, about halfway between Parque San Juan and the Plaza Grande (look for Terminal de Taxis Mérida-Hunucmá on google maps). Look for the vans going to Hunucmá. After about 45 minutes to an hour you will arrive in Hunucmá where you will have to switch to another van headed to Sisal. These vans are next to the main church (look for Taxis Hunucmá-Sisal on google maps). From there it’s a straight shot to Sisal which should take about 20 minutes.
Day Tour from Mérida
If you are less of a budget traveler and/or don’t want to bother with logistics, then a day tour like this one from Viator might be the right move for you. These tours typically go for around US$200 per person online, but you might be able to find cheaper options at your hotel or the tourist office in Mérida.
Getting Around
The town is the size of a postage stamp, so get out and walk! Traffic is minimal so pedestrians pretty much have free reign.
You can also rent a bike or hire a tuk tuk if you need to go further than your feet want to go.
Final Thoughts
We were only in Sisal for a long lazy afternoon, and there isn’t a whole lot going on. That makes it a great place to relax and get away from it all. I think it deserves a few days to fully explore the natural beauty and appreciate life in this sleepy little town.
Want to learn about other beautiful but less well-known places to discover in the Yucatán? Check out this 12 Amazing Places to Visit in the Yucatán (That Aren’t Cancun) post.
