This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.
Experiencing the running of the bulls at the Feria Internacional de la Pirotecnia Tultepec (FIP)—or the International Fireworks Festival of Tultepec—is the craziest thing we have ever done in Mexico. It might even be one of the craziest things we have ever done!
But there’s actually more to the fireworks festival than the running of the bulls. It’s two weeks of fireworks festivities, so there’s something for everyone. If you are in Mexico City in March, you should check it out!
There’s not a lot of information out there about the Tultepec fireworks festival (although it’s starting to get better). I have now been to the festival twice and have learned some tips and tricks. So I put together this article with everything I know to help you plan your own visit to the festival. Read on for information on what to expect, where to find up-to-date information, which day(s) to go, what to bring, and how to get there.
Don’t care about the background of the festival? Skip to the details on how to plan your visit!
How I Learned About the Tultepec Fireworks Festival
It all started one starry night in a desert camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan (stay with me here…).
We were sitting around the crackling stove, keeping warm in the dinner tent, chatting with a friendly Scottish chap, and somehow we started talking about Mexico. He got all animated and began to tell us about how he had spent a week in Mexico at a fireworks festival and had the most amazing time. Turns out he is a fireworks professional—and had been invited to the show. “Oh, you must try to go sometime!” he said.
And that, my friends, is how you find out about obscure events in faraway lands!
So a few months later, when we realized our 2023 trip to Mexico City coincided with the festival schedule, we made a point of finding our way to Tultepec for the running of the bulls.
Sounds fun, right?
Well, it was INSANE! And despite the crazy, we went back for a second time in 2024 (and it was even crazier!). Then we went for the piromusicales competition. So we are getting to know our way around the festival.
Read on for some background on Tultepec and the festival, and all the information you need to plan your own visit to the Tultepec fireworks festival. As far as I can tell, this is the ONLY blog where you will find this information.
The Town of Tultepec
An important character in the story of the fireworks festival is the town of Tultepec itself, often referred to locally as the “the capital of pyrotechnics.”
Tultepec is famous in Mexico for its 150-year history of making fireworks. They say that about fifty percent of all fireworks in Mexico are made in this small town just north of Mexico City.
Tultepec got its start in the colonial era as a gunpowder producer, given the local abundance of potassium nitrate, or saltpeter—a key ingredient in gunpowder, along with sulphur and charcoal. Turns out, gunpowder is still used as a primary ingredient for fireworks, so pyrotechnics production was a natural evolution for this town.
So this town of 130,000 people took up the manufacture of fireworks. They say sixty percent of the population is engaged in the industry, and together this collection of small workshops produces fifty percent of all fireworks in Mexico. That’s a lot of fireworks.
Tragedy in Tultepec
Fireworks manufacturing, however, is not without its dangers. And Tultepec is no stranger to tragedy, even quite recently.
In December 2016, an explosion leveled Tultepec’s San Pablito fireworks market, crowded with holiday shoppers, killing at least 35 people.
In March 2017 an accident killed four people.
In July 2018, a series of blasts killed 24 people and injured over 50 people, including four emergency personnel.
And the incidents continue. It’s risky business. But despite these tragedies, the town resists putting safety restrictions on the production of fireworks, always worried about the potential impact on their livelihoods. And they celebrate their fireworks legacy with (literally) reckless abandon.
What is the Tultepec Fireworks Festival?
Since the mid-1800s, Tultepec has celebrated the patron saint of fireworks-makers, San Juan de Dios (Saint John of God), on March 8.
However, they leveled up their celebrations after a tragic fireworks explosion at Mexico City’s Mercado de Merced in December 1988 killed 60 people, injured many others, and led to a ban on the production and sale of fireworks in city limits. Concerned about their future livelihood (and maybe less so their lives), they organized a new fireworks festival in 1989 to draw attention and visitors to their little fireworks town, to keep the industry alive.
And so the Feria Internacional de la Pirotecnia Tultepec was born from the ashes of tragedy.
The event was originally for local fireworks makers but has slowly expanded to include producers from other parts of Mexico and, more recently, internationally.
If you want to learn even more about the festival, check out the PBS documentary Brimstone & Glory.
Who is San Juan de Dios?
San Juan de Dios (Saint John of God) is a Spanish Catholic saint, and the patron saint of fireworks makers—and perhaps ironically, firefighters, nurses, and hospitals.
João Cidade was born in Spain in 1495. He eventually converted to Christianity and devoted himself to the care of the poor, sick, and disadvantaged. He eventually set up a hospital to care for them, and then other hospitals followed. Some consider him to be the father of the modern hospital.
Legend has it that he ran into the burning Royal Hospital to save patients, carrying them out through the fire, and going in to save more people. Every time, he emerged from the building unscathed from the flames.
He was canonized in 1690 and proclaimed the patron saint of hospitals and the sick. It’s only appropriate that fireworks manufacturers also chose to honor him as their protective saint.
Where to Find Tultepec Fireworks Festival Information
In a word: Facebook.
As of 2024 there is a new official government website (better than in 2023), but it is not nearly as good as the FIPTultepecFans Facebook page for information.
The FIPTultepecFans Facebook page is hands-down the best source of up-to-date information on the festival. They start building the excitement in the weeks before the festival and post the detailed schedule as soon as it is available.
The Facebook page keeps the energy up during and after the festival. It’s a great place for people to share their stories and war wounds from the running of the bulls.
Both sources of information are primarily in Spanish, but Google can translate them for you. I also have noted event names below in both Spanish and English, which might help you with your planning.
Note that until recently (I’m not sure exactly when), it was the Feria Nacional (not Internacional), so you will see it referred to both ways. It is also commonly referred to as FIP.
Tultepec Fireworks Festival Schedule
The festival runs for about two weeks in early March of every year—it is always timed around March 8 to honor San Juan de Dios.
And the festival seems to be getting longer every year! As a point of reference, in 2023, the 34th festival ran from March 3-13. In 2024, it ran from March 1-17.
As noted above, the best place to find the schedule is the FIPTultepecFans Facebook page.
Stay tuned for 2025!
Tultepec Fireworks Festival Cost
Most events at the festival are free, although a few of the big competition events require a MX$50 ticket, which is easy to buy on site.
In our experience it costs MX$200-300 each way in an Uber from CDMX. You can, of course get there cheaper (and slower) by public transportation, but we have not tried it.
Bring plenty of cash for festival food and fun. They have rides (ferris wheel, swing ride, and other nauseating spinning rides), games, food, and drinks.
Expect to spend MX$60-80 on food items like tacos or giant skewers of meat, and MX$10-25 on snacks like chips, popcorn, and cotton candy. Giant micheladas and beers go for MX$70-80. They also sell strangely delicious loaves of sweet bread for MX$60! All around decent prices for festival food.
Importantly, bathrooms are plentiful along the street and cost MX$5-10 (they get more expensive closer to the action).
Best Days to Attend the Fireworks Festival
The event now runs for almost two weeks, but there are several “wow” nighttime events that you should definitely plan your schedule around. The order of events changes year to year, so make sure to check the FIPTultepecFans Facebook page for the most up-to-date information.
In addition to the daily events, the festival has countless food vendors, carnival rides, and concerts for you to enjoy before or during the event.
These are the five must-see events, in general order of awesomeness:
- Recorrido de Toros Pirotécnicos / Running of the Pyrotechnic Bulls
- Fiesta patronal y quema de castillos pirotécnicos / Patron Saint Festival and Burning of the Pyrotechnic Castles
- Concurso Nacional OR Internacional de Piromusicales / National OR International (on different nights) Pyromusical Competition
- Exhibición de Globos de Cantoya / Exhibition of Globes (lanterns) of Cantoya
- Concurso Nacional de Piezas Mecánicas Pirotécnicas y Carnaval de Apertura / National Contest of Pyrotechnic Mechanical Parts and Opening Ceremony
The festival is most famous for the running of the bulls (because it’s next-level crazy), but there are also some other worthy events. Read on for information to help you decide which one is for you.
Full disclosure: we have only attended the running of the bulls and the International Pyromusical Competition.
Quema/Recorrido de Toros Pirotécnicos | Burning/Running of the Pyrotechnic Bulls
Also known as “La Pamplonada” in a nod to the running of the bulls in Pamplona, Spain. It might be just as dangerous.
Fireworks-laden papier mâché bulls on wheels parade through the streets and into the parade ground where they are lit up. Spinning fireworks go in every direction as young men push the bull around unpredictably—and maybe right in your direction!
This event takes your adrenaline to the next level. We have been twice and the second time was crazier than the first. I highly recommend it for the more adventurous among you! It’s really the most unique and special night of the festival.
The running of the bulls is always on March 8.
Attend at your own risk. It is genuinely dangerous.
Fiesta patronal y quema de castillos pirotécnicos | Patron saint festival and burning of the pyrotechnic castles
Fireworks experts construct 25-30 meter high erector-set “castles” and dangle every sort of firework imaginable off them. Once lit on fire, some parts spin, and can take up to 30 minutes to run through their sequence of explosions.
You can see the castles by day, but the main event is by night, when they light them up and display their pyrotechnic mastery.
Concurso Nacional / Internacional de piromusicales | National OR International (on different nights) pyromusical competition
This event is more similar to fireworks displays you are used to seeing (but probably a lot closer up!). It is basically spectactular fireworks synchronized to music. The international contest features four different countries, each taking their turn showing off their pyrotechnic mastery for 10-15 minutes.
The fireworks were really impressive! We saw some types of fireworks I had never seen before. If you like classic (but dazzling!) fireworks, this one is for you.
Note that the schedule said the contest was supposed to begin at 9pm…it began at 10:30pm. There is a concert beforehand. Bring a chair (or buy a stool from a local entrepreneur), or prepare to stand a lot. This might be the case at the other events as well (except the bulls).
Exhibición de globos de cantoya | Exhibition of globes (lanterns) of Cantoya
During this event, they send up giant paper lanterns into the sky, so it’s less fireworks-y and more mellow. The real globos are much larger than these pictures (these are just from the crowd at the international piromusicales competition!)
Concurso nacional de piezas mecánicas pirotécnicas | National contest of pyrotechnic mechanical parts
This contest gives people an opportunity to show off their mechanical engineering + fireworks skills. They build structures with moving parts and, of course, hang fireworks all over them and light it up. I’m not sure how different this is than the pyrotechnic castles.
Food and Fun
Make no mistake, this is a proper festival! There are rides, games, and lots and lots of food.
Come hungry! The most popular food seems to be meat on a stick. They have chicken wings, beef, pork…all on a stick!
And of course you can find tacos.
Vegetarians and vegans will have fewer options, but there are always corn options (elote and esquite), fruit, festival bread, chips, cotton candy, churros, and all the desserts you can imagine.
There are also plenty of drinks flowing, with extra large beers, and all kinds of cocktails.
Safety
It’s a fireworks festival in Mexico. Don’t expect any of the usual safeguards you would find in the US or Europe. Attend at your own risk.
Beware of pickpockets!
We didn’t have any problems, but on a VERY crowded Saturday night of the running of the bulls, our tall gringo friend got pickpocketed not once, but TWICE, in one night. The first time his phone. The second time his wallet. (He still had a great time.)
Bring only the bare necessities with you and stash any important stuff (ID, credit card) in a waist belt or secret pocket.
Tether your phone if you can, or hold it super tight, especially if you are going on a busy, crazy night like the running of the bulls. I have found this phone tether to be handy as a safeguard; I can either have it on my wrist or attach my phone to my belt loop.
Avoid Brawls
With the booze flowing freely, it’s not unheard of for fisticuffs to break out in the middle of a crowd. And it can get ugly. Keep your distance, and of course don’t get involved.
It’s also probably a good idea to limit your own alcohol intake so you can keep your wits about you at all times.
Beware of Lasers
File this under things that shouldn’t have to be said. They sell little green laser pointers at the festival, and boy do people love them! They point them at everything. During the show there were 100 lasers beaming onto a poor drone trying to film the fireworks. Sure, drones are annoying, but I kind of felt sorry for it.
More dangerously, whenever an airplane flew by everyone would zap it with their laser beam. No bueno!
I wish they would ban the lasers at this event, or at least teach people some basic safety, but that’s not going to happen.
Just be mindful (if at all possible) not to have anyone point the lasers at your eyes.
Bring Safety Gear (Running of the Bulls)
The running of the bulls is especially dangerous. No joke. Giant bull sculptures on wheels laden with exploding fireworks come at you suddenly, while rockets spiral in every direction. Shrapnel lands everywhere. Your eyes burn from the spark and smoke. There is nowhere safe to run.
And yes, they have a temporary Emergency Room set up, and rows of ambulances lined up near the fairgrounds. So I am not exaggerating.
One of us almost lost a finger (but was lucky just to lose a nail).
Bring safety goggles (so what if they laugh at you), a hat or helmet, face covering, and wear clothes that are not your favorite. They will probably get some holes in them.
Then admire the local bare-chested young men dancing gleefully and fearless in the apocalyptic fireshow!
How to Plan Your Visit to Tultepec
There’s not a lot of great information out there for non-locals to figure out how to plan your visit to the festival. I’ve got a few tips from our experience to help get you on the road.
Getting There (and Back)
Not gonna lie. It’s a bit of a schlep from Mexico City, even though it looks close on the map. And it’s really the hardest part of attending the festival to figure out.
Public Transportation
If you want to take public transit, expect to take over two hours to get from Mexico City to Tultepec.
The closest Metro station is Indios Verdes. Make no mistake, Indios Verdes is not very close at all, it is just one of the furthest points north on the CDMX Metro system. From there you will have to take a combination of Camion/Combi/Microbus to the final destination, or Uber.
Car / Uber
We took the Metro to Indios Verdes and found an Uber to take us from there. It was about an hour by car during rush hour, using the carretera (for extra $). Our Uber from Indios Verdes was about MX$250.
Of course, you can also take an Uber, Didi, or taxi directly from where you are staying. It will likely take a bit longer and cost a bit more.
Have the driver drop you off at the Terrenos de la Feria Nacional de Pirotecnia Tultepec (as it is written on Google maps). They will get you as close as they can as they navigate road festival closures.
Getting back is both trickier and faster. The hard part is finding an Uber driver in this remote town in the wee hours of the morning. Cell reception in the area is not always great, though it did improve slightly from one year to the next. We were able to find a driver both times, probably between 10pm and midnight, so I wouldn’t worry too much. I’m not sure if it gets easier or harder the later you stay. We heard that the festival can go as late as 4 or 5 am.
In good news, late at night it should take less than an hour by car to get to downtown CDMX (I would skip the metro at that hour).
If you really want to play it safe, plan ahead and arrange a driver in advance, or get a hotel to stay in Tultepec overnight (hotels are limited in this small town!).
Photographs
You can take photographs and videos to your heart’s content. You just need to be willing to lose or damage your phone/camera to pickpockets or errant fireworks.
That said, it’s an amazing event for photos and videos. Check out @fotografodelinfierno for some amazing photos from the heart of the action!
You can see plenty of drones in the air during the show, although I am not sure if permission is required (I highly doubt it). Given the general free-for-all that is the festival, I would say anything goes. But try to find out for yourself before you drone (as I am sure you drone pilots always do). Just know that everyone seems to have a green laser pointer, and they love to point them at drones, so you might not be able to get any decent pictures or videos.
Accessibility
The festival takes place on town streets and a grassy fairground, and in that way are probably manageable for wheels. That said, some of the more popular events can get VERY crowded, especially on weekends. It can be so crowded it is hard to move.
The running of the bulls can be observed from a distance. Just remember that the bulls move pretty quickly, sometimes right at you, so you either need watch from far away or be able to get out of the way quickly. Of course, there are also those that like to stay in the thick of things (and compare their battle wounds later).
Bathrooms
There are plenty of street-side entrepreneurial families taking advantage of the crowds and offering use of their bathrooms for (usually) MX$5-10. Make sure you have a pocketful of change.
Although they usually provide it, it’s probably a good idea to bring some toilet paper and hand sanitizer with you as well (isn’t it always though?).
Final Thoughts
I doubt you’ll find anything quite the FIP anywhere else in the world. It’s an all-out celebration. It’s super-local and at the same time grand and ambitious. Who would think you could see some of the best fireworks in the world in this dusty little Mexican town?
If you want to experience one crazy night, go for the running of the bulls! If you just want to experience a small-town festival in Mexico with amazing fireworks, go for the piromusicales or the castillos. Either way, it’s a great getaway from Mexico City in March!
