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A ride on a trajinera through the floating gardens of Xochimilco is on everyone’s “Top Ten Things to do in Mexico City” List. But what they don’t tell you is how far Xochimilco is from downtown and how much the experience costs , especially for the solo traveler.
So, you must be wondering…how much does it actually cost to spend a festive afternoon cruising the canals of Mexico City’s Xochimilco?
You should expect to spend a minimum of MX$2000 (around US$100, give or take, depending on exchange rates) to get to Xochimilco and spend a few hours cruising the canals. A lot of things like hiring the boat and mariachis are the same no matter how many people you have. So the more people you have to split the costs the better. It’s also more fun with more people, so win-win! Boats can usually take 15-18 people, so find some friends and save some money.
If you are a solo traveler, your best bet to save money is to hop on a tour (more on that later).
Know that while can be pretty affordable in the grand scheme of things, costs can also add up pretty fast, especially if you want to DIY it. How much, of course, depends on a lot of factors. Read on for details on what the different parts of the Xochimilco experience cost.
Oh, and bring CASH. Everything is cash. Bring more cash than you think you need (in MX$ of course).
Official Rates
Every year, the government sets a maximum hourly rate for trajinera (boat) rentals, food, and entertainment. Here is a rundown of costs as of August 2024.
Trajinera (boat)
As of August 2024 the maximum hourly rate is MX$750 per hour. You could potentially negotiate a lower rate, especially for a longer time, or if you reserve in advance. But I would count on paying the official rate (we did).
Trajinera tip
Of course you should tip your boatman. There are signs all over the boat “suggesting” a tip amount of MX$300 (I even saw MX$350 on another boat) and US$40. Those signs are both annoying and actually helpful, in terms of managing expectations. Ultimately the amount is up to you, based on your experience with your boatman. But we actually thought MX$300 was reasonable for a tip for our two-hour ride once you see how hard those guys are working.
Musicians
There is a remarkable variety of musicians floating around the canals in full regalia, waiting for you to beckon them over to play a few songs.
Just be prepared for some eye-popping prices! But considering there are often a lot of musicians in a mariachi group, and they have their own trajinera with a driver, it makes sense that they charge a lot. Just plan to splurge on a few songs, and definitely confirm the price before you say yes.
As of August 2024, these are the prices per song for different types of musicians.
- Mariachis: MX$300
- Norteños: MX$230
- Tríos: MX$170
- Marimba: MX$170
- Salterio (dulcimer) and accordion: MX$170
And if you are on a budget, just enjoy other people’s musicians! It’s a bit of a cacophony out there anyway (in a good way).
Drinks
There are boats going by selling beer, pulque, and I even saw one with a bottle of vodka! We bought a small beer (Victoria) for MX$40 and a large beer (Indios) for MX$150.
The official price is MX$40 for a typical size (12 oz / 355ml) light beer and MX$50 for a dark beer. A can of soda should run you MX$30 and a 20oz / 600ml bottle of water should be MX$30.
If you are on a budget (or particular about your beverages), definitely buy your drinks on land and bring them onto the boat.
Food
We opted to get our lunch at a floating restaurant of our boat driver’s choice (I’m sure he gets a cut). We had three main platters (tacos, flautas, and carne asada) and it came to MX$750. Expect to pay $MX110-130 for a single quesadilla, sope, tlacoyo, or tostada or $MX230 for a platter.
That’s a lot of money for what you get (almost US prices!). Still, it was nice to be dining on our boat, tethered by the shore and have the “restaurant” experience. They even brought a little tablecloth for us so we could feel fancy.
I probably wouldn’t do it again—but I certainly don’t regret supporting the local businesses on our first venture.
You can get also elotes (corn on the cob), esquites (corn in a cup), chicharrones (crispy pork skin), or manzanas (candy apples) from a passing boat for MX$45.
Souvenirs
You will find plenty of souvenirs floating by, from plushy animals to floral crowns.
If you are doing it for the ‘gram, you will look lovely in one of the flower crowns on offer. I was disappointed to see most of them were plastic, but hey, it will last forever. Flower crown prices ranged from about MX$150 to MX$250 for the ones made from real dried flowers.
Ways to save money
There are a few ways to bring down the cost of your Xochimilco excursion, most of which involve planning a little ahead.
Bring a Big Group
If you can gather a good size group of friends (maybe through your hostel?), that’s a great way to spread the fixed costs of hiring a trajinera and transportation to Xochimilco.
Honestly, I wouldn’t try to do it on my own unless I had at least four people, or it is a super special celebration, like a birthday, an anniversary, or a proposal. Even then, this activity is just more fun with more people.
Book a Tour
I normally prefer to do things on my own, but having the Xochimilco experience on a tour actually makes a lot of sense. Sharing the cost of the boat rental will bring the cost down. And frankly, an afternoon on a trajinera is just more fun with a bunch of people, even if they are strangers. If you aren’t bringing your own posse, a tour is the way to go.
For best value for money, I would do something like this Xochimilco, Coyoacán & Frida Kahlo Museum tour with Viator. The places they visit (Coyaocán, UNAM, and Xochimilco) are generally harder to get to, so going on a tour handles the trickiest part, which is the logistics. And at around $50, you just can’t beat the price!
Bring Food and Drink
Do like Mexican families and bring a whole spread for the boat!
You can bring whatever food and drink you want on board. It just requires a little planning ahead. Or you can stop at the Mercado Xochimilco (near the Xochimilco light rail stop) and pick up some tacos for the road. The Embarcaderos will also have food and drink available for you to buy before hopping on board. Though the closer you get to the boats, the more the prices go up.
Pro-tip: Some stores selling drinks at the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas entrance also renting out pretty nice coolers for MX$50 (not sure if that was by the hour), and ice. This would be a good option if you plan to bring your own food and beverages on board.
Final Thoughts
Spending an afternoon floating through the canals of Xochimilco is a quintessential Mexico City experience. While it’s super touristy, it’s a great way to bask in the colorful joy of Mexican culture.
It’s definitely not the cheapest or most convenient activity, but it’s worth it. If you can’t find a bunch of friends to share the joy (and cost), hop on a tour to experience this special part of Mexico City.
You won’t regret it.
