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Izamal is known for being a charming town and, well, very yellow! Just about all the buildings in town are a sunshiny shade of yellow and you can’t help but be delighted about it as you walk around.
There are just enough things to do if you want to spend a full day visiting, so it’s worth a stop on your Yucatán itinerary, especially if you have a car.
Izamal is still a little out of the way so it’s not super crowded with tourists, while still being super tourist-friendly.
A Brief History of Izamal
Izamal was designated as a Pueblo Mágico (magic town) in 2002. It is also currently on the tentative list as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “outstanding universal value.”
There are currently 132 Pueblos Mágicos throughout Mexico. Per visitmexico.com “The Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) designation is awarded to those communities that over time have maintained their original architecture, traditions, history and culture. As well as to those that have been of great relevance to the country’s history.”
Izamal is now a small town of about 15,000, and was founded by Zamná, priest of the god Itzamná people and grew to be one of the most important Mayan cities between 600 and 800 AD before it was “founded” in the 16th century by Spanish colonizers.
In addition to being the “Yellow City”, Izamal has a few other nicknames. They say Izamal is a “City of Three Cultures”, blending the pre-Hispanic, colonial, and modern cultures. It is also the “City of Hills”, so named because of the ancient pyramids that pop up all over town.
Like in many small towns in the Yucatán, you are just as likely to hear people speaking in their Mayan language as in Spanish.
Read on to learn about things to do, places to eat, places to stay, and how to get to and around Izamal.
Things to do in Izamal
You don’t come to Izamal to tick off a long to-do list. You come here for a relaxed stroll through the egg-yolk-yellow-hued streets on your way to the famous convent, admiring the colonial architecture, exploring some ruins, and maybe a finishing up with a little souvenir shopping.
Here are the top things to do in Izamal:
- Explore the Convento de San Antonio de Padua
- Ponder the Monument to Fray Diego de Landa
- Wander the yellow streets
- People watch in Parque Zamna
- Support local artisans by souvenir shopping
- Get your steps on some ancient pyramids
Convento de San Antonio de Padua
If you do one thing in Izamal, it will be to roam the grounds of the very yellow Convento de San Antonio de Padua. This convent and its church dedicated to Our Lady of Izamal were founded in 1549 and built atop a Mayan temple Pap-hol-chac dedicated to the god of rain. As was common, the church is built with the stones from the ancient Mayan city.
Izamal has been known as a main pilgrimage site in Mexico for a while due to the miracle powers of some statues in the church. But it really got cast into the limelight when Pope John Paul II visited in 1993 (some say that is the reason they painted the town yellow; makes sense). This was a really special event for the townspeople and I think they are still basking in the afterglow.
There is a statue of the pope right in front of the church. If you visit the little museum inside the church you can see the chair he sat on during his visit and a statue he blessed of Nuestra Señora de Izamal, patron saint of Yucatán State.
The pope connections don’t end there. They say the convent’s atrium is the largest in the Americas and second in size only to the Vatican. It’s really just a pretty green space surrounded by a wall of archways.
Note that if you go on Sunday, you will not be allowed into the sanctuary during mass (unless you are attending mass, of course). Therefore you will not be able to get a close look at the famed gold-plated Baroque altarpiece or the wood sculpture of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception brought by Father Diego de Landa from Guatemala.
You can, however, visit the dressing room behind the altar dedicated to the Immaculate Conception which has an impressive gold altarpiece of its own. This is where they change the outfits on the statue—there is a rail system that shuttles the statue back and forth between the dressing room and the sanctuary.
We only found this place by glomming onto a tour (in Spanish) we found while wandering the halls to the left of the sanctuary. Don’t be like us—check with the gift shop for information about tours so you can get the full experience.
Don’t miss the small museum off that same hallway – that’s where you can see the chair that Pope John Paul II sat in during his visit, and other artifacts related to that memorable event. There is a nominal MX$5 fee for museum entry.
Every night at 8:30pm (Monday to Saturday) the convent presents a light show about the past and present of the Mayan culture. We weren’t able to catch this show, but have heard it is good (also free, so low risk!).
Monumento a Fray Diego de Landa
Just south of the Convento de San Antonio de Padua, in the middle of a traffic circle you will find a statue of Fray Diego de Landa (erected in 1971), who was the second Spanish bishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Yucatán.
Fray Diego de Landa arrived in the Yucatán as a Franciscan friar in 1549, charged with converting Mayans to the Catholic faith. The conversion (aka inquisition) process involved destroying Mayan culture and religion, with a bit of torture thrown in for good measure.
Fray Diego de Landa has the odd distinction of both having extensively researched Mayan civilization and destroyed Mayan manuscripts. He documented his findings in his important book Relación de las cosas de Yucatán, and destroyed almost all Mayan manuscripts that would have contributed to understanding Mayan culture, religion, and script, all while squashing all idol-worshipping activities.
This priest sounds like a horrible little man who took away so much (but also contributed a great deal to our understanding of Mayan culture). But sure, let’s honor him with a statue (to be fair the statue does indicate that he was a contradictory figure).
I had more to say about that statue than I thought I would! If you want to read more about the man and the statue, I found this article “Diego de Landa: From Monasteries to Roundabouts” by Nina Holguin to be insightful.
Wander the streets of yellow
Find the shady side of the street (it’s hot in Izamal!) as you wander the sometimes cobblestoned streets of this yellow town, admiring the colonial architecture. It’s street after street of high-walled yellow buildings with white trim, with the occasional arch or decorative feature.
A popular activity in Izamal is taking a horse-drawn carriage (calesa) tour of the city. However, the ethics of horse-drawn carriage rides are certainly worth your consideration. There have been instances in Izamal of horses collapsing from heat and exhaustion in the past.
The carriage drivers do make an effort to attract your attention with colorful carriages and festive hats on the horses. It’s an efficient way to get the lay of the land and a little history.
If you need some direction for your wanderings, it’s worth meandering up the main street (Calle 31) to tiny Parque de los Cañones (Park of the Cannons), also known as Plazuela de las Cruces (Plaza of the Crosses).
I’m not sure why this bus was abandoned right next to Parque de los Cañones, but there it is. Note that this bus is behind a fence, so don’t go there with any ideas about being able to climb into the bus.
Parque Itzamná / Plaza Zamná (Zócalo)
This zócalo or park is just north of the Convento de San Antonio de Padua. It is the heart of the community (aren’t all zócalos, really?).
As a bonus for tourists, this is where you will find the typical colorful town sign. As a bonus there is a Yucatán sign!
Like most zócalos, this is a great spot to take a break and do some people-watching (not in a creepy way, obvi). On any given day you will find locals relaxing or playing in the park. The only challenge is finding a bench in the shade!
There are also food and drink vendors as well as local handicraft vendors.
Shopping
Izamal provides lots of opportunities to browse and shop for local handicrafts and souvenirs.
Right outside the main entrance to the convent is the Mercado Municipal. Inside, the mercado is bustling with food vendors, but the outside portico is ringed with vendors selling souvenirs, clothing, and household items.
The Museo de Artesanias is located on the northern side of the Parque 5 de Mayo. It is a small museum with crafts from all over Mexico with a gift shop. Don’t go home empty handed. There is an entrance fee of MX$25
Hecho a Mano is a well-known shop right off Parque 5 de Mayo with some beautiful arts and crafts from Izamal and around Mexico. Here you will find wood sculptures, textiles, henequen crafts, tin decorations, alebrijes (whimsical and colorful little animals sculptures from Oaxaca), and embroideries.
The Centro Cultural y Artesanal de Izamal is located in a restored 16th century home right off the main square, and exhibits artisan works in five categories: ceramics, wood, metal, plant fibers, and textiles made by some of the town’s finest artisans. There is also a gift shop where you can pick up some artworks of your own.
There are lots of artist workshops (talleres) around town where you can learn more about local artisans and see them at work doing wood carvings, ceramics, making hammocks, etc. Search for “taller” on google maps and you should find a few.
Mayan Archaeological Sites
Full disclosure: we were there in March 2022 and we tried to visit a few sites (Conejo, Kinich Kakmo, Zona Arqueológica de Izamal) and they were all closed due to the pandemic so this section is a little light. As of May 2022, it looks like they might be back open, but things are ever-evolving, so check before you go.
There are five pre-Columbian Mayan structures sprinkled around Izamal, testament to its strong Mayan builders and one-time status as a major Yucatán city. I wouldn’t say these are “destination” ruins, but if you have time you might enjoy a quick visit.
Ppap-Hol-Chak: This one doesn’t look like a pyramid, since the Catholics built the Convento de San Antonio de Padua on top of it.
Kinich Kakmo (or Kinich Kak Moo): This pyramid is located about three blocks north of the zocalo and is dedicated to the solar deity Kinich Kakmo. It is the largest pyramid by area and height (35m) in the Yucatán and third largest by volume in Mexico.. What people love most about it is that you can climb it and get great views over the city. Entrance is free and the site is open from 8am to 5pm (last entrance at 4pm).
Itzamatul: This is the second largest pyramid in the area, to the northeast of the zocalo. There are ruins of a temple on top of a multi-tiered platform. Entrance is free and the site is open from 8am to 5pm (last entrance at 4pm).
Kabul: You won’t find the ruins of this pyramid on google maps, but you will find them just to the west of the zocalo (and can actually see it in satellite view on google maps). You can see a portion of the wall from within the Museo de Artesanias.
Habuc and Hun Pik Tok: There is little to no information on these pyramids, and they seem lumped into the rather generic sounding Zona Arqueológica de Izamal site, just south of the Convento. This site is still temporarily closed, last time I checked. If anyone has any more recent information on these, let me know in the comments!
Conejo: This pyramid is a little further east of town and is reportedly small but mighty—perhaps why they named it “the rabbit”.
Where to Eat
The Yucatán peninsula is known for its excellent Mayan cuisine, and Izamal has a few spots that deliver. In Izamal you will always find panuchos and salbutes on the menu.
Mercado Municipal: Grab lunch in the food court of the mercado (closes mid-afternoon). You will have your pic of taco places.
Restaurante Zamna: Located a few blocks from the center of town, and right next to the Parque de Cañones, you can’t miss Restaurante Zamna. They have all the classics of Yucatecan cuisine, in a beautiful setting, and with handmade tortillas. They also have a menu section (albeit small) for vegetarians. This restaurant is owned by the same group (or shall we say empire?!) that owns Villa San Antonio de Padua and Hotel Rinconada del Convento.
Restaurante Kinich – El Sabor de Izamal: This is a great spot to enjoy classic Yucatecan cuisine with panuchos, salbutes, poc chuc, and chochinita pibil. And they have handmade tortillas (always a good sign). The restaurant is in a beautiful space right near Kinich Kakmó.
Restaurante Los Arcos: Los Arcos is located on the eastern side of Parque Itzamna. They have a great selection of Yucatán craft beers and all the classic Yucatán dishes. They have a vegetarian and a vegan section on the menu, so a little something for everyone!
Not in town but close enough (about 45-minutes west of Izamal), and worthy enough, to mention is Pueblo Pibil. Located in Tixkokob, it’s actually closer to Mérida than Izamal, but if you can swing this fine dining experience you should! We heard about it on the Netflix show Taco Chronicles, and decided to stop by when we were in the area. Normally it’s reservation only (and closes at 6pm daily, closed on Tuesdays) but they were able to take us in without a reservation the day we stopped by.
The space is incredible, with the highest ceilings probably in the Yucatán and a clean and simple décor.
The experience was wrapped up with impeccable service, delicious, refined food that honors Yucatecan cuisine, and creative cocktails true to their locale.
You can see the actual fire pits they use to cook the food in the outdoor courtyard; they start firing them up at the end of day to put in the meats for the slow 18-hour roast for the next day. They have tasting menus and à la carte options. (Note that this was probably the most expensive meal we had in our six weeks in the Yucatán).
Where to stay
For a town this size, there are a lot of affordable options for lodging; even if you are looking to splurge even a little, Izamal provides wonderful opportunities to stay in a grand hacienda at a reasonable price. Any hotel worth its salt will have a pool, which you will very much appreciate at the end of a day wandering around town.
For that boutique hotel hacienda experience, consider staying at Hacienda Sacnicte, a little bit outside of town. They have spacious rooms and a beautiful pool.
Right in the center of town, you can get the hacienda experience at Villa San Antonio de Padua (3 rooms for about US$60 per night or a 4-room villa for up to 12 people US$450 per night) or Hotel Rinconada del Convento (12 rooms for US$40-50 per night)—both owned by the same Yucatecan family business.
For more colonial vibes, the Hotel San Miguel Arcangel one block from the convent entrance will provide that night at the museum feeling for US$40-50 per night.
We stayed at Macan Che Garden Hotel on the eastern edge of town and would definitely recommend it, especially for a longer leisurely stay. Per its name, the hotel grounds are lush and beautifully landscaped, and the rooms are a bit basic but functional.
There is a super chill vibe there (tbh, it feels like a bit of a German outpost commune!) and it would be a great place to relax for a few days. It has a swimming pool made to feel like a cenote, and yoga classes and massages on offer. The included breakfast was excellent. Just note it’s cash only, so come prepared.
Getting Here
Izamal is about 70 km, or a one-hour drive, east from the center of Mérida, mostly along highway 180. It is about 100 km, or a 1.5 hour drive west of Valladolid, and about 260 km, or a 3.5 hour drive west from the center of Cancun.
Drive
The easiest way to get to Izamal is to drive yourself. It’s a great stopping point between Valladolid and Mérida.
Bus
You can also get to Izamal by bus from Mérida, Valladolid or Cancun. It is difficult to find information online about the bus, so your best bet is to head directly to the bus station to get information. As of now, ADO does not serve Izamal, so you will be looking for Noreste, Oriente or Centro buses. Oddly those services do not seem to have websites (or reliable websites) but do seem to be active on Facebook, so you could also inquire there for the latest information.
I gleaned all the information in this section from scouring the web, and am disappointed to say that the best I could do was find some good starting points—you will have to do a bit of leg work!
To/from Mérida
From Mérida, buses run approximately hourly to Izamal from the Noreste station on Calle 67 (between Calle 50 and 52) and will take about one hour. You can also take the bus from the Terminal Centro one block away on Calle 65 (corner of Calle 48) but these buses run every two hours and are reportedly slower because they stop in more towns along the way.
The Oriente bus station is within a few blocks on Calle 50 (between Calles 65 and 67) and also has buses to Izamal.
If you are feeling particularly adventurous you could take a colectivo from Mérida (pick one up at Parque San Juan) to Izamal—it will cost a lot less and probably take a lot longer, but it will get you there!
To/from Valladolid
The bus to Valladolid will take about 2 hours. You will need to inquire at the bus station for details, and will likely end up on Oriente or Centro buses.
To/from Cancun
The bus to Cancun will take 4-5 hours. You will need to inquire at the bus station for details, and will likely end up on Oriente or Centro buses.
Please let me know in the comments if you find any more precise information on bus options!
Day Tour from Mérida
If you are less of a budget traveler and/or don’t want to bother with logistics, then a day tour like this one from Viator or this one from Get Your Guide might be the right move for you. There are also tours that will pack in a cenote visit as well. These tours typically go for US$150-200 online, but you might be able to find cheaper options at your hotel or the tourist office in Mérida.
Getting Around
The best way to get around town is to walk. It’s a small enough town that there is no reason to drive around.
Another great way to see Izamal is on bicycle—there were lots of locals on bikes! You can rent bikes with @izamal.bike located at Calle 31 #304 between Calle 32 and 34, inside the Farmacia Itzalana (I recommend connecting with them on Instagram or Facebook for more information).
Final Thoughts
I don’t know that it’s worth making Izamal a destination on your itinerary, especially if you are short on time, but it’s certainly worth a detour on your journey between Mérida and Cancun/Riviera Maya.
Want to learn about other beautiful but less well-known places to discover in the Yucatán? Check out this 12 Amazing Places to Visit in the Yucatán (That Aren’t Cancun) post.
