This post may contain affiliate links, which means I’ll receive a commission if you purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure for more information.
Are you wondering if it’s worth it to visit Kabah?
If you want to have a unique Mayan archaeological site all to yourself, then yes, you need to plan a visit to Kabah!
This delightful archaeological site on the Ruta Puuc is compact but has a lot of well-preserved carvings and features that I just haven’t seen elsewhere. Besides, you really do have the site practically to yourself; we saw literally only three other tourists the morning we visited Kabah.
Two things stand out as highlights of a visit to Kabah: the intricate façade carvings and the large arch signaling the beginning of the sacbé (causeway) to Uxmal. They are both unique features that I don’t recall seeing anywhere else.
It’s definitely worth a visit, especially if you have a car. Visiting Kabah makes a great day trip from Mérida; you can even combine it with a visit to nearby Mayapán and/or Uxmal.
Read on for all the details on planning your visit to Kabah.
About Kabah
Kabah is a Mayan archaeological site on the Yucatán peninsula, located in the Mexican state of Yucatán. Kabah is actually part of the Pre-Hispanic Town of Uxmal UNESCO World Heritage Site, and together with Uxmal, Labná and Sayil “represent the pinnacle of late Maya art and architecture in their design, layout, and ornamentation”.
The site is managed and maintained by El Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH), Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History. INAH is responsible for 193 archaeological sites across the country, and they do a pretty amazing job.
If you want to learn about Kabah before you visit, check out the official INAH site for Kabah. You can find a site map and a little information on the site’s history and importance (in English and Spanish).
Want to skip the history and go straight to the practical tips for visiting Kabah? Click here.
History
Kabah’s origins began as a small community of hunter-gatherers around 400 BCE. It gradually evolved into the (likely) second largest in the area after Uxmal. We at least know it was an important city because it was mentioned in the Chilam Balam of Chumayel, which is one of a set of handwritten 16th century Yucatec Maya books documenting traditional Maya knowledge.
Kabah was also connected to Uxmal via a 20km long and 5m wide sacbe, or causeway—part of a comprehensive network of causeways in the Yucatán back in the day.
There’s not a whole lot of information on this history of the site and its inhabitants. But let’s get into what we know.
Name
The name Kabah in Maya means “powerful hand”. I haven’t been able to find much more information on the importance of the name!
Growth and development
The first evidence of humans at this site dates back to 600 BCE. The population in the area grew slowly because there was no reliable permanent water source (like a cenote), so they had to rely on rainfall for water. This is probably why there are so many sculptures dedicated to the rain god Chaac! It’s also why they built systems to collect and store rainwater throughout the site.
They didn’t start doing any major construction until 400-ish CE. Kabah reached its peak between 750 and 900 CE, when they also constructed some of the more important buildings, including the Codz Poop.
The population peaked at approximately 10,000 people before it was abandoned around 950 CE.
Decline and abandonment
There isn’t much information about why Kabah was eventually abandoned, but it is likely due to a period of drought, when the Maya left Uxmal and other Puuc cities due to lack of water.
Discovery
The question of “discovery” is always a delicate one, especially for a place that locals have known about all along.
The first recorded reference to discovery of the site was in the 1840s when explorers John Lloyd Stevens (an American writer) and Fredrick Catherwood (a British artist and architect) happened upon the site, likely directed there by locals. INAH began excavating in the 1950s and still continues.
Architecture
Those savvy archaeologists say that the structures at Kabah are primarily built in the Puuc style. Characteristics of this style elaborately are strong horizontal elements and sculpted façades. Kabah also has elements of the Chenes style, notably the recurrent depictions of the rain god Chaac.
If you want more academic detail on the architecture of the site, head to the Maya Ruins website.
Site Layout and Structures
At its peak, the ancient city of Kabah covered an area of 4 km², or 1.5 about square miles (960 acres). The excavated site you can visit today is only around 1 km², or 22 acres, nestled in a dense jungle area.
The site is organized into plaza groups which were built on the highest parts of the land: the East Group (where you will spend most of your time) the Central Group, and the Northwest Group.
At the time we visited we were only able to visit the East Group and the Central Group.
The East Group
The East Group is a palace complex that was the residence of rulers and the center of civic and religious activities during its heyday in 750-950 CE. There are two main squares surrounded by buildings with multiple rooms. Some buildings in this group have impressive elaborate facades that you just won’t find anywhere else.
Codz Poop (or Palace of Masks)
Located at the southern plaza of the East Group, the Codz Poop (best name ever, right?) is the main event at Kabah, and it does not disappoint!
Codz Poop is a 26-room building on top of a large, tiered platform. It is topped by an impressive three-level crest.
While Codz Poop means “rolled mat” due to the repetitive façade design, it is also known as the Palace of Masks. And for good reason. From a distance the façade just looks like stones.
But as soon as you get a little bit closer you can see that it is covered in a series of 250 repeated masks, each mask is a mosaic of 30 stones. These are the masks of the rain god Chaac.
Archaeologists speculate that there were originally 358 masks adorning all four sides of the building, but they later built a row of rooms on the east side that covered the original façade.
The “new” east side is also intricately decorated. They also added a frieze with seven figures, supposedly including the King of Kabah. Only two of those figures were restored—it’s a delightful surprise to come up the steps and see them watching over you!
Also look for these intricately carved door frames on the east side.
At the base of the Codz Poop, don’t miss the Altar of Glyphs. It is a four-sided structure with intricate carvings on all four sides.
They haven’t fully figured out what it says, but have found references to royalty, rituals, and military victories. Much of the altar was destroyed or looted, but there is still enough to appreciate.
The Palace (El Palacio)
The Palace is a two-story structure in the North Plaza. It has 32 vaulted rooms, 16 each on the first and second floors. Unlike other Puuc buildings, its decoration is rather plain, lacking the razzle dazzle of the Codz Poop.
Still the Palace is topped by an openwork crest that gives it some flair. Of note is the cantilevered staircase with a vaulted passageway underneath—you don’t see that everywhere.
If nothing else, it’s good spot to get a view of the East Group plaza and the Codz Poop.
Teocalli
Teocalli is a two-story building between the Codz Poop and the Palacio, on the south side of the North Plaza. It has 36 vaulted rooms, 20 on the ground floor and 16 on the upper floor.
It’s a pretty big structure, with a staircase leading to the plaza. They say it was once decorated with modeled and painted stucco, but there’s not much of interest to see now. There are few chambers on both levels that you can explore. Mostly it’s a convenient way for you to transition from the Codz Poop to the Palace.
Temple of Columns
Behind the Palace you can supposedly visit the Temple of Columns, another palace-type building. We were not aware of it when we visited, and honestly it looks like just jungle on Google maps, so I remain skeptical! But see if you can find it, and let me know in comments.
The Central Group
The Central Group is located across Highway 261. This group has not been excavated as much, so there is not much to see other than the Arch and sacbé.
The Grand Pyramide (el Gran Pirámide)
If you don’t know it’s there, you won’t even notice the Grand Pyramid when you walk past on your way to the Arch (which is probably why I didn’t even take a picture). It’s basically a jungly hill at this point. So nothing to visit, but we can imagine what it might be like under all that vegetation.
The Arch (el Arco) and Sacbé
After a five-minute walk from the highway on a serene pathway, you will turn the corner and see the Arch.
The Arch is an impressive archway marking the symbolic beginning of the 20km sacbé (causeway) to Uxmal. It was likely built between 670 and 770 CE. They say it is the largest freestanding Mayan arch!
As you explore the Arch, look for the remains of red handprints on the inner walls. Also watch out for resident iguanas and wasps!
The Mayan Ruins website is a good source of information for more details on this and other Mayan ruins. While the name almost the same, this website is different than the one cited above!
Tips for Visiting Kabah
I recommend you always check the official INAH site for Kabah for the latest information on price and opening hours. But here is a quick summary of key information to help you plan your visit.
Hours
The site is open every day from 8am until 5pm, last entry at 4pm.
Cost
The entrance fee is MX$75, making it one of the more affordable archaeological sites.
Amenities
There is a small toilet facility at the entrance. They charge MX$10 to use the facilities, so bring change.
There is a small snack shack at the entrance, but it wasn’t open the day we were there, so I wouldn’t count on it, just in case.
Crowds
Maybe we just got lucky, but this is the least crowded Mayan archaeological site I have ever visited. Seriously, we saw three other tourists. Entrance to Kabah is free for Mexican citizens on Sundays, so it might be more crowded then, but I wouldn’t worry about it.
Should I hire a guide?
I have heard that guides are available at Kabah, but we did not have the option when we visited. We did visit during late pandemic times, so that might have been a factor.
Hiring a guide can be a great way to enhance your visit to Kabah, but it is not absolutely necessary. That said, I would definitely consider hiring a guide at Kabah if they can take you to explore the sites beyond the main plaza area.
Even without a guide, the site is well-marked and there are information panels in English, Spanish, and Maya (which I love to see!) throughout the site that can provide you with basic information about the different buildings and structures.
What to Bring to Kabah
Any time of year it is hot and humid in the jungles of the Yucatán. So you need to pack accordingly.
Comfortable walking shoes: Kabah is not a huge site, but you will be climbing some uneven stone steps, so leave your stilettos at home. Since it is hot out there, I recommend a sturdy hiking sandal.
Sun protection: Most of the site is out in the open with little to no shade. The Mexican sun can be intense, especially during the midday hours. Be sure to bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun’s rays.
Rain protection: If you go in rainy season (June to October), or the forecast calls for rain, you should come prepared with an umbrella or rain jacket. There is not a lot of shelter.
Bug spray: It’s the jungle, my friends! You are bound to encounter mosquitoes and other insects, and you don’t want the dengue fever.
There will be more mosquitos between April and November, with the most during rainy season July to September. Bring insect repellent to keep these pests away especially if traveling during peak mosquito season.
I always travel with a bite stick as well, since they seem to get me anyway.
Water and snacks: It’s always a good idea to bring your own drinks and snacks in case the snack shop isn’t open or doesn’t have what you want. You don’t want to be out in the middle of nowhere without options—and it really is in the middle of nowhere. Bring more water than you think you need.
Cash and small change: Bring some cash and a variety of small bills and coins with you. You will have pay for your ticket in cash, and they might not have change, especially earlier in the day. If you hire a guide, you will have to pay them in cash. You also have to pay (MX$10) to use the toilet. You will also want a stash of cash in case you are taking the bus or a taxi to get to your next destination.
How to Get to Kabah
You know I am always for taking public transportation, but getting to Kabah is not easy on the bus. The easiest way by far is to drive (which we did).
Kabah is about 100kms, or 1.25-hour drive, from the center of Mérida. The site is about 150kms, or 2-hour drive, from Campeche. It’s a great site to visit on your way between the two cities.
By Car
The route is pretty straightforward from both Mérida and Campeche following Google maps, with a combination of highway driving and cruising through small towns and jungles.
By Bus
Buckle up, this will be an adventure. But it’s nothing that you can’t handle with some preparation and patience.
I did not personally experience getting to Kabah by bus, but we did end up giving a ride to a nice French fellow who had made the trip by bus, so I know it’s possible. Instead of him waiting four hours for the next bus back to Mérida, we dragged him along on our visit to Mayapan.
If you are taking the bus, it makes the most sense to combine your visit to Kabah with a visit to Uxmal—and you should visit Uxmal first.
There are a few Sur buses per day that leave from Mérida’s main ADO station to Uxmal, 6am, 7am, 9am, noon…and maybe others (the schedule appears to be constantly evolving). That’s it. If you want to beat the crowds at Uxmal and visit Kabah, hop on one of the early buses. Buy your ticket at the ADO counter, it should cost around MX$100, including the cost of a rechargeable Ahorro card.
The bus will take around 1.5 to 2 hours to get to Uxmal. You will have around two hours to visit Uxmal, then hop on a 30-minute bus to Kabah (ask at the ticket entrance for guidance).
To get back to Mérida, you will have to wait for the 3pm-ish bus to pass by. I believe this bus is coming from Campeche and will also stop in Uxmal on the way to Mérida. In good news, you will probably get a seat before the crowds get on at Uxmal.
In sum, if you are taking the bus, be prepared for confusing schedules, long waits, and crowded buses that may or may not have air conditioning.
Organized Tour
If you are not on a tight budget, an organized tour is a good option. You can arrange a day tour from Mérida that will take you to both Uxmal and Kabah, and maybe even a cenote. That would certainly make for a memorable day exploring Mayan archaeological sites.
Final Thoughts
It’s hard to put my finger on exactly why I have such delightful memories of our visit to Kabah. I think it was the combination of having the place to ourselves and being totally echanted by the quantity and quality of beautiful carvings. It was a total surprise!
It’s definitely worth stopping by Kabah if you are road tripping through this part of the Yucatán peninsula. Even better, combine it with a visit to Uxmal and/or Mayapán!
As always, let me know in the comments if you have any questions, comments, or updates to the information in this post!
